Engine Swap & Transplan, Cost Effective

If there is adequate space in the engine bay any engine can be made to work in any car although in most cases the work involved is prohibitive to say the least. In an ambitious project you would have to strip the car to a shell and create custom drive train, create a custom gearbox and make a one off loom to cope along with a totally new engine computer.

So if someone asks "can I fit an AAA engine in my BBB car", the answer is yes but you should really be asking is it affordable and practical.

Generally speaking look at engines from the same manufacturer and preferably from the same model as these are usually mated to the same gearbox ranges and engine mounts are available off the shelf saving the time and effort of creating custom engine mounts yourself.

Often high performance saloon engines will fit into smaller family or shopping car derivatives from the same manufacturer.

When swapping in an engine which has twice the power of the current one you should also look at replacing the gearbox. Firstly the gearing will be so low you will not be able to fully exploit the top end of the engine and secondly you are likely to shred the current gearbox as it was not built for the power you are putting through it.

Your first task is to ask around and see if and engine swap has been done before on your stock car and donor engine combination. Our forum is a great way to meet other owners who have done or are considering the same engine swap as you.

Find out first what is involved in your chosen project as these are rarely just drop in replacements and usually need an engine management upgrade and new wiring loom with many engine swaps needing different engine mounts and an amount of custom work such as shorter drive shafts.

Set yourself a budget, add another 50% for unexpected work and start looking around for your donor engine. If you can avoid one which has been sitting around for months you will avoid the need to rebuild the engine and there will be little corrosion which has built up.

Engine bay space is often at a premium and you can always relocate the battery and some of the engine electrics to the boot if you are very tight for space.

(When engines are left without coolant and engine oil for more than a few days corrosion can be a real problem especially around the core plugs). When stripping down an engine always replace the cylinder head bolts and rod bolts but there is no need to replace the main bearing cap bolts with new ones. it is also worth replacing the core plugs (which pop out when the engine freezes) when you have the engine out of the car and you should take the opportunity to replace these with new parts.

Whenever you fit an engine to a car I would recommend stripping it down first, inspecting and replacing worn parts, and rebuilding it to ensure that it is reliable. You should aim at a minimum to replace the core plugs, head gasket and cylinder head bolts.

While the head is off you also get an opportunity to inspect the engine for damage and can decide in advance whether more extensive engine work is required or cost effective - usually for the extra cost involved you will save yourself a great deal of hassle later on dealing with component failures.

When you have a stripped down engine you have a fantastic opportunity for tuning and can save a small fortune if you get all of the engine modifications done at the same time so look into engine balancing, fitting larger valves, gas flowed machined head, crank lightening and even a lighter flywheel and clutch.

Most of these will involve a great deal of man hours stripping and rebuilding the engine again should you decide to do these at a later date. Replacing the oil pump, water pump and fuel pump is also a good idea at this stage as a failure can be catastrophic undoing the work you have done and requiring another rebuild.

With the new engine fitted check all of the leads pipes and hoses are connected, there should not be any exposed connections. when you are satisfied start the engine and let it run for a few seconds. Check the engine for leaks and look at the oil level and pressure, water level and look on the ground for leaks.

An engine will usually take a few hundred miles to properly bed in so keep the revs down and watch the temperature gauge and oil pressure gauge constantly. If you have stripped down the engine and fitted new pistons and rings run in the engine afterwards carefully.

The run in drive should be with low rev & high stress driving such as hills and acceleration, changing the oil and filter after 200 miles and then after 500 miles and 3000 miles to get rid of the metal fragments that will collect in the oil and prematurely wear the engine. (Do not use any oil additives in this run in period or for the first 9000 miles as these will stop the bedding in process.)

The 10 Most Decadent Options

Will you love yourself so much that you would do anything to make yourself glad? Surely that devotion extends to your car, and we have a list of the ten most decadent options you can find. Just to make things clear, we’re not talking about modern necessities such as cruise control or air conditioning. We’re talking about excessive self-indulgence to the extent that some might consider it moral decay. Of course, those ethically righteous types probably only frown on such extravagance because they can’t afford all this awesome stuff. These items don’t make your car perform any better, either. Their sole purpose is to make you say, “Thank you, myself,” every time you use them.

10. BMW Comfort Access

Power windows are great and all, but sometimes it’s really tough to push all the buttons to roll them up and down. That is why BMW offers Comfort Access, which lets you roll the windows up and down using the key fob remote. And if you have a convertible, you can operate the roof as well. Of course, it also allows you to unlock and lock the doors and start the engine without going to all the trouble of taking the key out of your pocket or putting it in the ignition. This is a luxury that is very easy to get used to. Comfort Access is $500 on 1- and 3-series models, $1000 on other BMWs.

9. Porsche Customized Leather List

Porsche is famous for the extent of its options lists, and for how much it all costs. The leather portion of the options list is by far the craziest section, with a stupefying array of choices. Leather on the vent slats? That’ll be $365. You can even get the coat hook on the back of your seat swathed in leather.

8. Mercedes-Benz Designo Interior

Standard leather is so, well, standard. If you really want to pamper yourself in an S-, SL-, or CL-class, we suggest dropping $12,015 for the Designo interior. For that much cash you also get velour floor mats to coddle your couture soles.

7. Mercedes-Benz Drive-Dynamic Seats

Really, this option is all about multitasking. Think of the time you’ll save by getting a back rub while in the car. You can choose between four combinations of slow/fast and gentle/vigorous, but “fast and vigorous” aren’t so much; the option is better in theory than in practice. But who cares? It’s only money, after all, and these thrones provide serious bragging rights. And a little massage always beats no massage. They are available as a standalone option on the S550 for $1820 and are part of the $5290 Premium 2 package on the CL550, and they’re standard equipment on any AMG or V-12 CL- or S-class.

6. Lexus Executive Package

Why reserve lounging for your private jet or living room? For an extra $12,675 on top of a $73,725 Lexus LS460L (a little less in the hybrid LS600hL) you can get a reclining rear seat with an extending leg rest. Considering that you’d have to buy a $350,000 Maybach to get this feature in any other car, it’s a relative bargain.

5. Mercedes-Benz Airscarf

Most people understand that removing the top of a car exposes you to the elements. But if you refuse to accept the reality of the shortened driving season that Mother Nature imposes on you, Mercedes has your answer. Airscarf is a vent just below the headrest that blows hot air on the back of your neck when others are raising their tops. It’s part of a $3750 package on the 2009 SL550, but only $510 on the SLK55 AMG.

4. Rolls-Royce Starlight Headliner

You might think that $12,100 for 1600 tiny lights in the headliner (a mere $7.56 per light) is over the top; but how would you know? We certainly can’t afford a Rolls -Royce Phantom, but if we could, this dramatic—and pointless—option’s box would be the first one we’d tick.

3. Maybach Granite Interior

Considering how many homes cost less than a Maybach, it’s only appropriate that you can trim out a Maybach as opulently as your abode. Granite interior trim will cost you an astonishing €43,000 (about $60,600), and that’s for the Basic package. There’s also a pricier package for the Maybach Landaulet, and the Luxury package costs more still. Maybach wouldn’t share just how much with us working types.

2. Aston Martin Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX2 DBS Transponder Watch

James Bond might drive an Aston Martin, but he wears an Omega. Too bad for 007. Anybody who has $37,900 to spare and wants to use a timepiece to access his or her car can order up a Jaeger-LeCoultre watch that will unlock the doors of his or her DBS. You do, however, still need to insert the sapphire key to start the car.

1. Bugatti Veyron 16.4 Paint Packages

If €1.1 million (about $1.6 million) and a limited run of less than 500 copies aren’t exclusive enough for you, try the special editions of the Bugatti Veyron 16.4. For half a mil or so—depending on the strength of the dollar—you can opt for the Pur Sang edition, which comes without any paint, or, if you’d rather have special brown paint and leather, the Fbg par Hermès, created with French fashion house Hermès. Or, for the same price, you could get a convertible version.

Neon Lights to Enchance the Coolnest at Night

Neon lights able to come in any ways of colours and styles, including flashing and colour changing neons, pulsing neons, strobes and should be considered a show item only.

Most countries traffic laws require due consideration to other road users and neons are classed as a distraction rather than a safety enhancement. So check the local legislation that applys before you decide to drive around with neon lights showing. In some countries Blue is reserved for emergency vehicles and red can only show to the rear of the car.

Fitting instructions:- This is a simple job that should be completed in a few hours provided you do your homework, get the parts you need and have READ the INSTRUCTIONS that came with your Neon light kit. Plan out where the neon lights are going before you even open the box.

Make sure you are able to turn them off and on inside the car separately from the cars lights legality. You will need a jack, 4 Axle stands or a garage with a power lift, power drill or power screwdriver with drill option, screwdriver and depending on the kit you buy some shrink wrap cable covers or electricians self sealing tape and perhaps you will need to source the electrical cable yourself.

First disconnect car battery as per the instructions that came with your car - this will often reset the ECU and you will lose your stored MPG and other saved settings such as auto windows and they will need to be reprogrammed and you may find you need to enter the radio code so ensure that this is handy. Clean underside of the car with a jet wash to remove grit dirt and grime as this will let you see what you are doing more clearly.

Jack up the car and ensure it is securely fixed on axle stands (never work under a car that is just supported by a Jack,

Lay out tubes on ground first and check the required cable lengths wires should be facing the front of the car. In most countries the tubes must not show to the sides of the car so fit them into recessed under the car and avoid fitting them near the fuel line, handbrake cable or exhaust pipe.

Brackets that came with the tubes should be fitted to the tubes. Holding these up to the underside of the car will enable you to mark the screw holes. (Check you will not be drilling into anything important, mark it with a marker pen. Use a punch to start the hole and drill into the underside of the car remembering that the metal is only a few mm thick. Apply a rust inhibiter to the holes and then using the screws supplied affix the tubes to the underside of the car.

Next comes the power transformer which is usually best fitted to a space in the engine bay out of the way. Be careful to avoid a wet location or anywhere near the exhaust or cooling system. This could also be fitted behind the dashboard or in the footwell area. Connect the -ve terminal to some bare metal in or around the car not directly to the battery. Take a +ve line from the battery which should have a correctly rated inline fuse within around 12 inches of the Battery itself and connect this to the transformer via a switch inside the car to enable you to turn it on and off independantly of the cars ignition.

Next connect the neon lights to the transformer as per the instructions that came with your kit. You may need to solder the connections yourself or it may have a good quality water tight plug attached. If you solder remember to use a shrink wrap over the connection or electricians self sealing tape to gain a waterproof joint. Engine bay and Boot/Trunk neons are also fitted in a similar way and some kits contain interior neon lights as well.

Any slack will vibrate and wear - ensure all joints and cable runs are securely fixed. Use cable ties, and cable clips to fix any slack cable firmly down.

Advantages of adding a intercooler

The problem with a Turbo is the close proximity of the cold intake charge with the hot exhaust temperatures within the turbo.

Don't forget that a big air intake heat rise comes from the actual compression of air so even supercharged engine will benefit from an intercooler.

If you have ever felt the nozzle on a tyre pump you will realise that when air is compressed it gains heat.

We know from our chemistry and physics lessons that the colder air is the more oxygen it carries.

Why is this important? To burn fuel you need oxygen and, the more oxygen you have, the more fuel you can burn, which increases the power output of the car. See the article on air intakes for more information.

An intercooler is effectively a radiator which allows the intake air charge to be cooled before it gets into the engine. You would ideally mount an intercooler in front of the radiator so that it gets all that nice cold air hitting it. It would sit after the air intake filter and after the turbo or supercharger.

Most cars have front mounted intercoolers which sit in front of the radiator and as a result they tend to offer superior air cooling over top mounted intercoolers. You need to take into account the fact that the air reaching the radiator is reduced so you may in extreme cases need to uprate your cars radiator to maintain low on track temperatures.

Some cars have top mounted intercoolers which suck air in through the bonnet, this may mean that when the car is stationary it is actually being hit by warm air coming from the engine bay.

This can actually improve economy as you are able to burn less fuel because the air is warmer and you certainly don't want to be pulling big power figures whilst ticking over in traffic. The Subaru Impreza springs to mind as a car with a top mounted intercooler. A top mounted intercooler offers a substantially shorter air flow route into the engine.

All turbo cars will benefit from an intercooler and improvements can be made on the standard factory fit intercoolers. You need to remember that you want to suck as much air into the engine as possible, so if the intercooler internal core hinders airflow you will actually lose some power.

The 2 factors which make an intercooler work are the internal flow characteristics and the cooling fins. Ideally the fins will have the largest surface area and the internal core will benefit from a low number of tapered bends and no internal welds to cause turbulence.

Some argue that all intercoolers restrict the airflow, but considering the benefits gained by having a good quality one fitted and the minimal loss of airflow inherent in a well designed intercooler the argument does not stack up. In reality using an intercooler which is too large can hinder airflow so there is an important case of getting the correct size for the application (this is something which can be discussed in more detail in our forum.) Bigger is not always better!

For a boost level of 15PSi, we at TorqueCars would expect a pressure drop of .5 to .9 psi with some applications losing 1.3psi in the worst case scenario. (Just as increasing pressure increases temperature so decreasing pressure results from lowering the air temperature so don't blame the intercooler design for the entire loss of pressure.

Weight is always an issue in performance cars and many after market intercoolers are both lighter than their factory equivalents and offer substantially better performance gains. As a general rule of thumb a slightly bigger intercooler will have better cooling properties although it usually creates more drag. This extra drag needs be carefully weighed up against the cooling offered. The longer the air is inside the intercooler the better the cooling effect will be.

Some cars have a spray nozzle to spray the intercooler with water therefore reducing the intake temperature further as the water evaporates using heat from the air flowing through the intercooler.

The actual power gain from an efficient intercooler design is between 5% and 10% with a temperature drop of 35C-40C and this will obviously depend on the ambient temperature - the bigger the difference between intake temp and ambient temp the better the cooling effect.

Essential guides on tuning a turbo engine

2 impellers are in a turbo engine which are located in the exhaust flow and along the intake path. The exhaust side rotates as the exhaust gases flow and this turns the impeller on the intake effectively sucking in fresh air.

So the turbo essentially generates power from the waste exhaust gases. Although sticking a propeller in the exhaust flow will reduce the exhaust efficiency the power gains on offer more than make up for this.

So who invented the the turbo? Aircraft running on fuel were altitude restricted due to the thin air and lack of oxygen this contains. By using a turbo the air could be forced into the engine and allowed the aircraft to run at higher altitudes or faster at lower altitudes.

It was not long before someone saw the application in car engines and we started to see turbos arriving in popular cars. In recent times manufacturers have been forced to produce more economical cars. With a turbo you get more power per cc making an engine more efficient. It is the power gains that TorqueCars members are most interested in, although the economy is nice to have.

The potential for turbo tuning power gains is massive. Most engines are over engineered for reliability and can take increases in power of 30-50%. Some engines can support even larger power gains. There is little surprise that in our 2 most tunable engines report, both are turbo driven.

With the advent of modern engine computer control we get a method of maximising the power produced by the turbo.

For example the exhaust gases are vented away from the turbo when certain levels of boost are reached. With a remap you can overcome this limitation. Fuel delivery also needs to matched to avoid running a lean mixture so the computer controls the timing and quantities of fuel delivery. Please review the articles on Remaps,BOVs, Boost controllers for more detailed information.

Are there any drawbacks to turbo engines? Until the exhaust gases start to flow quickly enough there is little the turbo can do. This is manifest in what is referred to as lag where the engine seems lifeless until the turbo kicks in. The bigger the turbo the greater the lag problem. Also when you compress air you heat it up and as we all know hot air carries less oxygen than colder air. This is easily solved with an intercooler.

No longer are we limited to a single turbo. Many cars now come equipped with Twin Turbos such as the GTO and Nissan 300zx. Big turbos are also on offer and this is the usual path an upgrader will take. We also see triple and quad turbo setups with boost controllers kicking in each turbo as exhaust flow increases for a steady power delivery.

Uprating turbos.

Adding a turbo to a standard engine is another option but there are quite a few considerations so read our turbo uprating article for a brief overview of some of the obstacles you will encounter.

Turbos are one of the best innovations in automotive engine technology.

They allow a small engine to produce similar power to much larger engines.

This enables the engine to be more efficient and with the move away from large V6 and V8 engines the turbo enables a manufacturer to build a car which has both economy and performance.

Your main aim in tuning a turbo is to enhance the airflow through the turbo. This applies equally well on the exhaust and intake side. Enlarging the intake channel and polishing the internal surfaces will dramatically reduce internal friction.

Many turbos and exhaust manifolds are cast and the casting process leaves seams and pits which dramatically affect air flow.

Using ball bearings instead of thrust bearings will allow the turbo to spool up more quickly. Ball bearings also last longer than trust bearings. Ceramic bearings have also been used for their heat resistant properties.

We should add that the larger capacity engines including the V6 and lazy V8's will produce phenomenal power gains if they were turboed as some of our serious drag racing members have discovered.

A 2.5 litre engine in NASP form will usually produce around 200-260 bhp. When the same engine is setup for a turbo we see power figures from 400 to 1000bhp.

Just a word of warning from TorqueCars - the turbo is spinning at 100,000's of RPM so be cautious when you switch off it needs oil if it is going to survive. If you switch off the engine whilst the turbo is hot you will burn off the oil inside the turbo causing excessive friction and wear.

Switching off the engine also stops the delivery of fresh oil. So allow the turbo to cool down by slowing up towards the end of your journey. Sadly people are generally ignorant of the oil and heat problem and will just switch off their engine after a spirited run.

Free Tips on Fine tuning on your suspension setup

People just keep on lowering their cars and assume that stiffer springs and the lower ride height will improve handling.

But there are many other settings for your suspension which can make a massive difference to the handling before you even think about changing components.

The shocks are generally a piston inside a liquid and some have an additional gas chamber to absorb shocks (gas compresses whereas liquid does not compress under pressure.)

Shocks can have a fairly complicated structure.

Testing the shocks on your car you bounce the car – if you get more than one bounce then your shock are on the way out.

Without shocks the car would drive like a thing on a spring and just bounce everywhere.

Fine tuning your suspension settings can dramatically increase cornering OR straight line stability.

(Damper – the shock absorber).
Bound & Rebound settings
This is the dampening force of the shock absorber. Bound is the rate at which the shock allows compression and rebound is the rate at which the shock releases the compression.

If your suspension has a dampening control then you can play with these settings and get the optimum setting. Electronic in car adjustments is now possible and if you are considering drifting your car you really should invest in one of these set-ups.

Camber
This is the angle of the wheel to the road. If you put all of your weight on the outside of your feet you would have a positive camber and if you rolled your feet inwards so all your weight is on the inside you get negative camber.

As the car rolls into a corner the camber can make a big difference to handling and also tyre life. Sadly the best camber setting for handling will cause premature wear to the tyres!

Front wheels are set up to get negative camber as the wheel is deflected up. The camber setting is the angle of the wheel to the road as well as the angle of the wheel to the chassis. As the car corners and rolls the suspension geometry must maintain the best angle of contact of the tyre to the road.

This is why manufacturers go to such great lengths to set up their cars correctly and when you make suspension modifications it should be your aim to keep as close to the makers spec as possible. Generally the more tuned the suspension set-up the less variation there is under stress and the less room you have to play with. Start off with the manufacturers settings and alter these slightly increasing the negative camber and test the results. If you can’t feel any difference then why are you bothering!

Remember that kerbing wheels and hitting bumps can knock out the camber setting. Tyre temperature alters the camber so the camber is best set with warm tyres!

Caster
Imagine it is a windy day and you lean forwards – your legs now have a negative castor. The angle of the wheel hub in relation to the suspension arm is described as the angle of castor. The positive castor keeps the wheel straight when going along – a bit like a pram wheel the connecting arm to the hub is set slightly back. Stability results whereas a neutral camber would result in the wheel wobbling around the axis. The angle a car wheel is set at generates more camber when the wheel is turned.

Toe
Stand like Charlie chaplain with your heels together and your toes out. Now imagine your cars tyres are at this angle too – this is known as Toe Out. Toes in is where your heels are apart and the toes are together. Obviously the angle of Toe in a car is barely perceptible.

The effect of this setting on the car is stability – toe in gives great stability on the straight and the car resists a turn to the right or left. Toes out gives a much quicker steering response. Toe in is a road car setting and Toe out is a track setting – it is up to you to decide how much Toe you want. Toes applies equally to the rear tyres although they are generally set as a lower angle than the fronts.

Roll
Eliminating roll in corners helps cornering stability and keeps all four wheels on the ground. When pushed really hard most production cars will lift a rear wheel of the ground and when cornering you really need as much rubber in contact with the black stuff as possible.

The roll bar also known as a sway bar helps to keep the car level in a corner by taking the lift from one side and trying to move it to the other. As this is not possible the lift is effectively pulled down and everything is kept in contact with the road.

Strut braces stiffen the top of the suspension mountings and help reduce flex when you are pushing the car hard so also have a minor benefit at reducing roll.

Spring stiffness
If the springs are too stiff the car will bounce over humps and lumps in the road.

If it is too soft the car will just wallow along (it’ll be a really comfortable ride though).

The best shocks are adjustable on the car and let you get the set up perfect to match your driving style.

If you have slightly softer springs on the front the nose of the car will grip in corners and you will have more oversteer (back gets lighter and tends to go wide in corners). If the soft springs are on the back you will get understeer, which is how most production cars are set up nowadays because the inexperienced driver reacts better to understeer than oversteer.

Bushes (bushings)
These connect the suspension components to the chassis of the car. The rubber ones deteriorate in time.

New polyurethane bushes last longer and keep the handling much tighter but because they are harder they can make the ride a little more bumpy.

A set of new poly bushes will sharpen up the handling of your car reducing the slop and sway associated with rubber ones.

You can get a full set of suspension bushes for most cars although rarer models often only have the main bushes available in polyeurothane. Custom bushes can often be made up to suit your application.

The 10 top car features you must have in your future car

1. Remote keyless entry

Keyless entry systems allow you to unlock your car by pushing a button on a remote. The ability to quickly get in to your car without fumbling for the key is an important safety feature, especially in poorly-lit areas. With most remotes, pushing the button once unlocks just the driver's door; you must push twice to unlock other doors, so there's no worry about a hidden intruder jumping into the passenger's side. Most also have a panic button that honks the horn and flashes the lights.

2. OnStar System

With OnStar, help from a real-live person is always just a button-push away. Got a flat tire? Someone following you? Just need to hear a human voice? Push the button. OnStar advisors can summon a tow truck or a cop, or just say hello. If your airbags deploy, they call you. They can even track your car if it's stolen and remotely let you in if you're locked out. OnStar charges a monthly subscription fee; the basic plan gives you the most critical safety benefits and is a bargain at $17/month.

3. Anti-lock brakes (ABS)

Simple physics dictates that a turning wheel has more traction than one that is skidding. Antilock brake systems (ABS) watch individual wheel speeds; if one locks up, they pump the brakes far faster than a human could. Don't worry about giving up control to a computer; if the ABS system goes on the fritz (they rarely do) the brakes work normally. Do-it-yourselfers can still do their own brake jobs (though you must relieve system pressure before removing a brake line; check your repair manual).

4. Electronic stability/skid-control system

ESC systems use the anti-lock brake sensors (which show individual wheel speed), accelerometers, and steering wheel/pedal position sensors to figure out what the car is doing and what the driver wants it to do. If the two don't seem to match up, ESC does what no driver can: It applies the brakes to individual wheels and reduces power as needed to keep the car going where the driver is trying to point it. They are almost transparent and work surprisingly well.

5. Telescoping steering wheel/adjustable pedals

Most new cars have height-adjustable (tilt) steering columns; some cars have steering wheels that telescope (move in and out) and/or electrically adjustable pedals. The latter two not only make finding a comfortable position easier, but they allow shorter drivers to safely position themselves farther from the airbag while still keeping their feet comfortably on the pedals.

6. Rear-seat DVD player

Got kids? Movies-on-the-go can make long trips easier for both you and them. Many rear-seat entertainment systems include wireless headphones, so you can enjoy the stereo (or the peace and quiet). My own children would have TVs surgically implanted in the backs of their hands if they could, so in order to avoid turning them into road-going zombies I generally limit movie watching to long trips. They also make a convenient reward and/or dangling carrot.

7. GPS navigation system

Using the Global Positioning Satellite System and sensors in the car, GPS navigation systems can pinpoint your exact location and give you turn-by-turn directions (via a small video screen, spoken voice, or both) to help you find your way. Most will also guide you to the closest gas station, ATM, hospital or police station. They can steer you out of a bad neighborhood, they can route you around traffic, and no matter how lost you get, they can always help you find your way home.

8. Side airbags

Most cars have at least three feet of crush space at the front and back, but only a few inches of protection at the sides. Federally-mandated door beams help keep the car intact instead of caving in. But there's still the problem of inertia: While the car is being pushed away, your body (particularly your head, which isn't secured by the seat belt) wants to stay still, and it could go right through the side window. Side airbags cushion your noggin and help keep it safely inside the car.

9. Center console with power outlet

Open the center consoles on many new cars and you'll find a power outlet (a.k.a. a cigarette lighter without the lighter). These outlets provide a way to charge your mobile phone while keeping it out of sight. I'm dead-set against talking on the phone while driving (though I sometimes do it anyway), but it's good to know you'll always have juice to make a call in case of an emergency.

10. Roadside assistance

Flat tire? Dead battery? Out of gas? Traditionally, people have turned to AAA (US) or CAA (Canada) for life's little motoring emergencies, but many new cars come with roadside assistance as part of their new-car warranty. Several manufacturers even offer it as part of their "certified used" programs. That said, AAA and CAA memberships are inexpensive; with all the travel discounts they bring, your membership may very likely pay for itself.

Easy ways for a better appearance & performance accent

There are many ways on changing the appearance of a car with performance in mind. Some consider modifying their car in a way to broadcast their performance intentions to the world and possibly even outer space. Wings extending three feet off the trunk, racks of lights, and more body kit than there is actual car underneath is apparently the way to go for space alien performance. Others value subtlety and actual performance gains—even if small. Sometimes the most effective path to take is a simple blend of subtlety and effectiveness.

Subtle Distinction
Aerodynamics in custom car modification is an area where it's easy to do more harm then good. Pushing a car through the air requires a great deal of energy. Any obstacle in the way of airflow creates drag. So that three foot tall wing may look sporty, but in reality likely slows the car down. Smaller aerodynamic devices can add a bit of style without causing more harm than good. While genuine performance gains are difficult to measure without something like a car-size wind tunnel, even a minute change in airflow over a car or wing can make a dramatic difference in performance.

The Gurney Flap
An aerodynamic case in point was a length of aluminum that became known as the Gurney Flap. The story of the flap's creation follows a challenge by driver Bobby Unser to his then boss Dan Gurney to come up with something to make their 1971 USAC racecar turn faster lap times. Gurney suggested riveting a short right-angle flap lengthwise along the top trailing edge of the car's rear wing. The increase of rear downforce on the racecar was so dramatic that the team had to add downforce to the front of the car. More traction with a minimum increase in drag was the result. The Gurney Flap became the team's secret weapon to win races and was later proven to be effective in a McDonnell Douglas wind tunnel.

Easy Application
Riveting an inch or so tall piece of right-angle aluminum onto a car might do the same job, but the holes left pop rivets drilled into the trunk deck will not seem like such a great idea when it comes time to sell the car. Fortunately installing aerodynamic bits in less than an hour is as easy as opening up a browser and firing up eBay Motors, or similar. In this case the spoiler came with adhesive strips already in place, and was even paint-matched ahead of time for a seamless and factory looking install. While winning races and making history may not be the end result of an hour in the driveway, a spoiler can certainly add a sharp performance accent with minimum impact.

Guides

Park the car in the shade and allow paint to cool. Clean the mounting surface with some automotive paint grease remover or a small amount of naptha to remove wax and grease. Test any solvent first in an inconspicuous area. Never apply any solvent to hot automotive painted surfaces.

Find the center of the trunk with measuring tape. Apply some masking tape and mark the center with a pencil or marker. Measure and mark the center of the spoiler using the same method. In this way there won't be one side of the trunk that ends up with more spoiler than the other.

Flip over the spoiler and cut just the outside covering of the adhesive strips. Peel back the strips just far enough so that they can extend from underneath the spoiler. This will allow for mounting of the pressure sensitive adhesive on the center, but still allow for positioning as the spoiler is installed.

Turn the spoiler back over and carefully place it on the trunk so that the marked centerlines match up. The adhesive is pressure sensitive. Don't apply downward pressure until everything is lined up. Make sure the adhesive strips extend far enough to be pulled from under the spoiler.

Test the centering of the spoiler to make sure the ends will line up. Press down on the center line. Use more masking tape to mark the edge of the trunk line and to act as a guide. Pull the adhesive coverings out from under the spoiler while lining it up with the edge of the trunk lid. Work one side of adhesive strip at a time from the center of the trunk out.

Once everything is lined up and looking good remove the masking tape used for marking. Use a clean cloth to apply downward pressure along the length of the spoiler taking care not to scratch the paint. Pressure will help the adhesive take hold of the trunk lid and prevent any flying aero bits.

Tips for a Better Brake Performance

One area hot rodders, racers and custom car (and truck) builders tend to ignore is the brake master cylinder and, in particular, the actual brake pedal ratio. After all, it doesn’t make the car one bit quicker or faster, and if the thing stops,in the end, why worry?


Pedal Ratio
The critical component in the braking equation is the pedal ratio. In operation, the brake pedal acts as a lever to increase the force the driver applies to the master cylinder. In turn, the master cylinder forces fluid to the disc brake caliper pistons or drum brake wheel cylinders. If you examine a brake pedal, you'll see the pivot point (where the pedal swivels) and the mounting point for the master cylinder pushrod are usually different. By varying the length of the pedal, and/or the distance between the pushrod mount and the pivot, you can change how much force (from your leg) is required to energize the master cylinder. This is the "mechanical advantage" or pedal ratio. This formula will help you figure it out: Input Force x Pedal Ratio ÷ Brake Piston Area = PSI.
Mathematical babble? The arithmetic simply equates to the amount of force exerted by your leg times the pedal ratio divided by the area of the brake piston(s). FYI, the typical adult male can exert roughly 300 pounds of force (maximum) with one leg—and that’s a bunch. Something in the order of 1/3 or 1/2 that figure is obviously more comfortable, even in a hardcore racecar.The average manual (non-power boosted) master cylinder requires somewhere between 600-1,000 PSI to be totally effective. Somehow, 100-150 pounds of leg force has to be translated into 600-1,200 PSI. The way it's accomplished is by way of pedal ratio. While changing the overall length of the pedal is possible, it's often easier and far more practical to shorten the distance between the pivot point and the master cylinder pushrod mount location. That's precisely how many racecar chassis shops modify brake pedals.


This manual master cylinder is one of the most common you’ll find in modified applications). It is based upon a Mopar configuration, and is sold by Mark Williams Enterprises and others. These master cylinders are available in at least two different bore sizes: 1.00-inch and 1-1/8-inch (a 1-1/32-inch bore cylinder is also available from some sources. This is very close to a 1.00-inch assembly, and it's sometimes called that). They’re manufactured with an aluminum body along with a relatively large capacity plastic reservoir with dual outlet bores (which correctly face the driver side fender when mounted in the car).

The Mopar master cylinder has one shortcoming: The size of the outlet fittings. The front fitting is a 9/16-20-inch Inverted Flare while the rear is a 1/2-20-inch Inverted Flare. They’re not common. Lamb Components offers a solution. Lamb manufactures special adapters specifically for these master cylinders that allow an easy hook up to #3 A-N fittings.



Look carefully at this piece: It’s a pushrod retainer engineered into the M-W master cylinder. The purpose? It positively retains the brake pedal pushrod. That means the pushrod can’t fall out if the pedal goes over center. And don’t laugh. It happens more regularly than you might think with modified cars.

The typical Detroit pedal assembly looks like this. This vintage Nova hanging arrangement is designed to accept the brake pedal assembly, and if equipped with a clutch, that too.

If you take close look at this pedal, you can see two different master cylinder pushrod mount holes—one is for a booster-equipped application, while the other is for a non-boosted brake arrangement. For a late model, non-boosted manual application, many fabrication shops modify the pedal assembly by creating a mount that is higher (up the pedal) than the original. By moving the mount position higher, the pedal ratio is improved.