Pumping Fuel into Engine, Volkswagen

Volkswagen thrives on its class, simplicity, and economy. These attributes are reflected on its vehicle designs. For example, basic VW automotive architecture involves having the fuel tank located in a car's opposite end off the engine. Because of this distance, a specially-designed, yet fundamentally-constructed VW fuel pump is needed to draw the gas toward the engine. There are two kinds of VW fuel pumps: the mechanical fuel pump, used in carburetor-run older VW models like Brasilia and Combi, and the electric fuel pump, used in the more recent, electronically fuel injected (EFI) cars.

Electric fuel pumps, the ones used by VW today, are almost always located inside the gas tank. This helps prevent vapor lock and keeps the fuel pump to a low and controlled temperature. The VW fuel pump is a turbine type hydraulic unit directly linked to a permanent magnet motor. This motor uses the fuel as its lubricant and coolant. Electric fuel pumps are used in EFI engines because they can produce high pressures needed for proper fuel management. An electric VW fuel pump is typically capable of putting out about 90 pounds per square inch (psi) of fuel pressure. A check valve is included in the fuel outlet to hold pressure when the pump is not running. Another valve, the pressure limiter, is located at the pressure side of the fuel pump housing, with a return passage to the fuel inlet side to keep fuel pressure within the prescribed specifications.As the rotor disc rotates, the rollers are pressed outwards by centrifugal force and act as a circulating seal. The circulating rollers, in turn, creates a pumping action drawing in fuel at the inlet port and forcing the fuel through the outlet port and into the fuel system. When the pump is shut off, the check valve in the fuel outlet closes, therefore prohibiting the fuel from returning to the fuel tank through the fuel pump. The check valve therefore maintains pressure in the fuel lines called the "rest pressure." Maximum fuel pump pressure depends on the calibration of the pressure limiter. In a clogged fuel filter, for example, the fuel pump pressure exceeds a preset limit, resulting to a by-pass opening to the fuel inlet side of the pump by the pressure limiter.Fuel pump failure is not uncommon, particularly in cars with electronic fuel injection. Usually, when a fuel pump fails, a car will simply sputter and die, and will not restart. Essentially, a car with fuel pump failure will act like it is out of gas, even when there is gas in the tank. Fuel pump failure can be verified by checking the fuel delivery end of the system -- if no fuel is being delivered to the engine, the fuel pump has most likely failed.Replacing an electronic VW fuel pump can be really tricky. The fuel pump is usually mounted along with the fuel tank sending unit. Care must be taken when removing the pump/sender assembly so as not to damage the sender unit. Some vehicles have an access panel to get to the fuel pump without having to drop the tank. VW generally does have these panels. Some cars require a special tool to disconnect the fuel lines. Other cars have an access panel in the interior of the car that can be removed to reach the fuel pump. Still other vehicles require the fuel tank to be siphoned and removed, or dropped, before the fuel pump can be accessed. The latter type of car usually makes for the most laborious job of replacing a fuel pump. Arduous the changing of a fuel pump may be, but with this lies the car's efficient fuel intake.

Great Hydraulic Pressure, Volvo Master Cylinder

Every car needs a provider of great hydraulic pressure in order to maintain the efficiency of the hydraulic system. Not every driver or car owner knows what his master cylinder does for him and his car, when in fact it should be well-known. The master cylinder contributes well to the safety of the driver. Even if the primary and secondary cylinders should have a leak, the master cylinder acts alone to ensure that enough pressure will still be available when the driver steps on the brakes.Fortunately, there is a company that understands the grave importance that the master cylinder has. Volvo, one of the world's genius in the automotive history, has developed the advanced technology that a high quality master cylinder should be made of. Thus, the Volvo Master Cylinder is of high quality and great performance.

The Volvo Master Cylinder supplies pressure to both circuits of the car. It is a remarkable device that uses two pistons in the same cylinder in a way that makes the cylinder relatively failsafe. Meanwhile, it is the combination valve that warns the driver if there is a problem with the brake system, and also does a few more things to make your car safer to drive. The Volvo Master Cylinder has a brake-fluid source, which is called the brake-fluid reservoir. It also has an electrical connection which is a sensor that triggers a warning light when the brake fluid gets low.When a driver presses down the brake pedal, it pushes on a primary piston through a linkage. Pressure builds in the cylinder and lines as the brake pedal is depressed further. The pressure between the primary and secondary piston forces the secondary piston to compress the fluid in its circuit. If the brakes are operating properly, the pressure will be the same in both circuits. That is how the Volvo Master Cylinder operates.Since it is exposed to such an arduous task, it is also vulnerable to wearing out. Although this will happen after a very long time with the Volvo Master Cylinder, one should always ensure that it is replaced or taken care of by a professional. And one must do away with the old, unreliable ones, and trust the name of Volvo. Because with 80 years of service, Volvo knows what is best.

Free Guide on Volvo Head Gasket

Among the many complicated parts of a car, one should always be knowledgeable in managing and handling all of them. Who drives a car without knowing where his coil springs are located? And what is an oxygen sensor? How about the head gasket? Because most of the car's compression is caused by a good head gasket. One can not just run a vehicle without thinking about his car's good compression.

Volvo, the Swedish genius behind the evolution of modern cars today, is continuously innovating its technology to better serve its loyal patrons. They are responsible for most of the production of trusted quality car parts, and they make it easier for drivers to locate their coil springs, oxygen sensors and head gasket. How? Because these parts are sure to function without fail.Among the best-in-class products of Volvo is the Volvo Head Gasket. The Volvo Head Gasket is a gasket between the engine block and cylinder head in an internal combustion engine. Its purpose is to seal the cylinders to ensure maximum compression and avoid leakage of coolant or engine oil into the cylinders.There are three types of Head Gaskets with different makes. There is an MLS gasket or a Multiple Layers Steel which could be commonly found in most modern head engines. These typically consist of three layers of steel. Another one is the Solid Copper. A solid sheet of copper, and typically requires special machining called "o-ringing" that places a piece of wire around the circumference of the cylinder to bite into the copper. Last is the Composite, which is an older technology made from asbestos or graphite, but is becoming rare nowadays because it is more prone to blowouts.Sometimes, the compression in the cylinder may cause a leak to form in the gasket, usually referred to as a “blown” head gasket. Fortunately, this will be a rare occurrence when a car is hooked up with the Volvo Head Gasket. Because for nearly 80 years of service, Volvo is almost sublime.

Comparison for Petrol and Diesel Engine

Car engine is a lump of metal fitted in the car that makes the car go zoom. The traditional types of car engines are petrol and diesel. Since the introduction of automobiles in the Indian car industry, these two types of engines have been dominant and are still among the top most fuels used for fuelling the engines.Though many alternative fuels like LPG, CNG, compressed air, and water are now used for running the engines, petrol and diesel engines hold their positions to the top. However, they differ a lot in terms of power, performance, and output.Here we’ll discuss the basic differentiation between petrol engine and diesel engine.

Petrol Engine:

Petrol engine is one of the traditional forms of car engine that runs on petrol. The first petrol engine was introduced by two skilled engineers from Germany, Gottlieb Daimler and Karl Benz, in the year 1885. This type of car engine is composed of nearly about 150 moving parts that supports burning of fuel with the use of spark plugs and cause expansion of hot gases.In petrol engine, there is pre-mixing of fuel and air that enables the car to run at a higher speed but with lower fuel efficiency.
Diesel Engine:

A diesel engine is an internal combustion engine that runs on diesel. Named after Dr. Rudolph Diesel, this type of engine uses the compression ignition to burn the fuel which is injected into the combustion chamber after the air is compressed.Diesel engines were traditionally used in large automotives like trucks, locomotives, and ships in replacement of the steam engines. Later, the same were being used in automotives and passenger cars for long distance driving and better power.

Petrol vs. Diesel:

• In India, petrol is costlier than diesel and that’s the reason why many people prefer diesel cars especially those who have long distance commuting on a daily basis.

• When the time comes to resell the car, diesel cars have better resale value as compared to the petrol counterpart. This is because many people believe that diesel cars run longer than the petrol cars because petrol destroys lubrication but diesel does not.

• It is also said that petrol cars give lower fuel efficiency as compared to the diesel cars. If the petrol cars deliver a mileage of about 60 mpg, then the diesel counterpart will deliver nearly about 70-80 mpg. On a long distance drive and long routes, diesel cars are much preferred over petrol siblings.

• The compression ratio in diesel engine is 22:1 which makes it difficult to start the engine whereas in case of petrol engine, the engine is more likely to start at a quicker rate as compared to the diesel engine.

• Petrol engines are comparatively lighter than the diesel engines but yet diesel ones give more torque which makes them better for towing

.• Diesel engine makes the driving more heavy and uneasy as compared to the petrol engine. Diesel engine makes the steering wheel heavy and thus the driving needs an extra pressure.

• Petrol cars produce less noise and vibration than the diesel car engines.

Free tips on Honda Termostat-Guide to prevent overheating

As you comfortably drive to a much anticipated destination, your Honda car suddenly overheats. Among all the engine parts, the first thing that would take your blame (and swearing) is the Honda radiator, right? Of course, you might have correctly suspected that this engine cooling component is the main culprit. However, you might also want to check your Honda thermostat. It could be the cause of your misfortune on the road.The Honda thermostat also works for your engine cooling system. It is the one in control of the temperature that enables the cooling system to function efficiently. As it regulates the temperature, it helps your car’s engine reach its operating temperature more quickly. It also controls the amount of coolant that goes through the radiator according to the temperature. Once the engine achieves the necessary temperature, your Honda thermostat starts to close, preventing any more coolant from going into the radiator.
This process only goes to show the important role that the Honda thermostat plays in the cooling system. Needless to say, it directly affects the cooling system. Thus, when it gets damaged, one possible result is the dreaded engine overheating—which, unfortunately, affects other engine parts as well. And you may not even believe all the other “horrors” a broken Honda thermostat can do to your car’s engine! Poor fuel economy that leads to toxic emission increase, low heater output, high idle speeds, low gauge or inaccurate temperature readings, and a knocking noise in the engine while you accelerate—to name just a few. For sure, you don’t want to experience any of these. So before turning your dream trip into one huge nightmare, there’s one thing that you can easily do. Go now and have a look at the condition of your car’s thermostat. And replace it with a new one from our stock of replacement Honda thermostats if necessary.

Free tips to improve fuel efficiency of Honda I-vtec engine

Honda, a leading Indian car manufacturer, had introduced a revolutionary car engine in the global car market. The engine was designed to meet the increasing demand of improved performance and fuel-efficiency. The new engine was first fitted in the Honda Civic to achieve a perfect blend of power, performance, and fuel-efficiency.After the engine was fitted in the Civic, it was modified and altered to have better power and performance. The evolution of the VTEC engine proved a blessing when fitted in the all-new Honda City. The intelligent VTEC (Variable Valve Timing and Electronic Lift Control) system ensures maximum efficiency by switching the valve timings of inlet and exhaust valves of the car engine. It is also considered to be one of the best engines that deliver powerful, torque performance and excellent mileage.
The all-new Honda City with the advanced i-VTEC engine carves its own niche in the Indian car market. It has been a great success in winning hearts of car consumers. It is designed with innovative technologies and technical precision that ensures excellence in all arenas including driving pleasure, engine performance, and low fuel-consumption.The key factor that contributed to the success of the new City is its powerful and effective i-VTEC engine. Honda’s engineers have fine tuned every engine component of the car engine make its more efficient than the traditional car engines.Following are the top 3 ways Honda improved fuel-efficiency of its i-VTEC engine:Patterned Piston CoatingOne of the best ways to improve fuel-efficiency is to reduce friction. Honda engineers tuned the engine components including the piston to help improve fuel-efficiency. In order to do so the engineers have modified shape of the area around the piston and also made minor adjustments in the surface configuration. They gave a patterned surface to the piston coating to ensure reduction of friction and enhanced fuel-efficiency.Auto-Tensioner with Drive-BeltAuto tensioners help automatic regulation of the closing and opening of the intake and exhaust valves of the engine. When fitted with the drive belt, it helps in controlling the tension of the timing belts which further monitors the ignition timings. Honda engineers fitted the auto-tensioner with the auxiliary drive belt that connects the crankshaft and the camshaft. The tensioner in connection with the drive-belt absorbs all variations in the tension created due to speed changes. This regulation eventually helps improve fuel-efficiency.Plastic CoveringIt’s a fact that the car weight plays a significant role in increasing or reducing fuel-efficiency. If the weight of the car is more, the engine will need more power to pull the car and if the weight is reduced, comparatively less power is required for acceleration. With this fact, Honda’s engineers decided to reduce the car weight by replacing aluminum engine cover with plastic covers. This has reduced the weight of the engine by about one kilogram, thereby reducing overall weight of the car and increasing fuel-efficiency.

Disappearing Automotive Features

You probably remember them — maybe fondly, maybe not. The eight-track player. Manual windows. Locks you actually had to lift. As cars get more technically advanced, many of the features we once knew are heading to the dustbin of history.
After reviewing Cars.com's vast data banks and scouring through automaker press kits, we've come up with a list of once-common features now on the way out.

No. 1: Crank windows
These can still be found in entry-level vehicles, but as soon as you step up from the least-expensive vehicle in an automaker's lineup, they disappear. Holding a button to raise a window is easier — and probably safer — when you're pulling away from a tollbooth or drive-through window.

No. 2: Cassette-tape decks
Yes, you can still find them. Many European carmakers still insist on them, and some people have stuff on tape they can't transfer to a CD for whatever reason. But, really, the car world today is one of CDs and MP3s — and that sounds just fine to us.

No. 3: Keys/locks/any mechanical means of getting into your car
We're a nation of fobs these days. Press the button, unlock the driver's door. Press it again, unlock all the doors. If you're really high-end, you don't even know what a key is because of your fob that talks to the car and unlocks the door as you approach. A start button rids you of the trouble of putting a key in the ignition and turning it.

No. 4: Lap-only seat belts for the center rear seat
This one is a marked improvement as far as safety is concerned. Most cars now provide the person sitting in the most uncomfortable seat in the car the same three-point belt the other passengers enjoy. Sure, you could find a car that still offers a lap-only seat belt back there, but why would you want to?

No. 5: Cars priced less than $13,000 -->
Yes, everything is getting more expensive; that's just how the world works. If you want all the latest safety features and amenities, it's going to cost you. Go shopping and it may appear many automakers offer cars less than $13,000, but it's usually just one stripped-down model.

No. 6: 85-mph speedometers
They say optimism is a virtue, and it shows in the car world. Even econoboxes that could probably only shimmy their way to 100 mph with the help of a hill, a tailwind and a brave driver have speedometers that go to 120. (Sigh.) Just as some drivers should not be allowed to drive, some cars should not be allowed anywhere over the posted speed limit ... in a school zone. Rectangular speedometers that span the entire instrument cluster have also gone away, but you never know; they might still return one day.

No. 7: Motorized antennas
These are so rare you might have to ask your parents about them. In many higher-end cars of the 1970s and '80s, a motor would extend the car's antenna to better receive radio broadcasts, then retract it later. That meant drivers didn't have to either manually extend the antenna or just leave it up. Hmm. This from the generation that walked to school, worked three jobs and taught themselves to read on the back of a shovel. Manually extending an antenna must be tougher than it sounds.

No. 8: Three-speed automatic transmissions
Three on the tree means nothing to kids now, and it's not because carmakers have moved the gearshift from the steering column. Three-speed transmissions are at least one speed too slow for nearly all of today's cars. If the current trend toward five- and six-speed transmissions continues, we'll soon be saying the same thing about four-speed models.

No. 9: True compact pickup trucks
Not only are things getting more expensive, they're getting bigger as well. Just as houses are McMansions and drivers are increasingly — ahem — husky, the small pickup of ages past is expanding to what could legitimately be called midsize.

No. 10: Six-passenger, rear-wheel-drive, body-on-frame cars
This used to be the way all cars were made: You built a frame, attached the engine and transmission, slapped on the body and off you went. There was a front bench to carry Mom, Dad and one child, and a rear bench for Grandma, Grandpa and the other child. No more. Only the Ford Crown Victoria, Mercury Grand Marquis and Lincoln Town Car meet all these criteria now. Front bench seats in particular are going the way of the dodo; Buick joins Ford and Lincoln as one of few automakers to put them in their cars. Larger SUVs and trucks are the best bet these days if you really want a front bench.

Small Cars Won't Keep You Safe. WHY?

While environmentalists push laws requiring automakers to sell smaller, lighter cars in order to meet higher fuel-economy standards, safety advocates worry that meeting those demands will result in cars that are less safe in a crash.

They might be right. A report recently released by the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety (IIHS) praises President Obama's plan to boost fuel economy standards for cars by using a size-based system that removes incentives for automakers to manufacture only tiny cars. The report also says mid-size and large sedans must have a place on the nation's highways because--even with airbags, electronic stability control and strong front-crash ratings--small cars are much more dangerous in head-on crashes than larger vehicles.

"A really, really poorly designed or insufficiently designed large- or medium-sized car may be more or less protective than the best-designed small car, but that's something that you're not going to be able to tell just by looking at crash-test ratings," says David Zuby, senior vice president of vehicle research for IIHS. "So all things being equal, if you're concerned about safety, you want a bigger, heavier car."

The statistics support Zuby's claim. Death rates in minicars involved in multi-car crashes are nearly twice as high as those in large sedans, according to IIHS data. In single-car crashes, 11 people per million were killed in large sedans in 2007, compared with 35 per million killed in small cars. In mid-size cars, the death rate for single-vehicle crashes is 17% less than for minicars.

The new report is especially noteworthy because normally the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) crash tests are performed using a stationary wall and a single car--not two cars being crashed into each other.

The Laws of Physics
The Arlington, Va.-based IIHS rated front-to-front crash tests between microcars and mid-size sedans. The Institute chose 2009 models of the Honda Fit and Accord, the Smart Fortwo and Mercedes C-Class, and the Toyota Camry and Yaris. It did not survey SUVs or large sedans in order to show how much influence even small increases in size and weight have on crashes, the report said.

Vehicles from Daimler, Honda and Toyota earned study slots because they have small models with "good" ratings--the highest that the IIHS awards--in a 40-mile-per-hour frontal (stationary barrier) crash. But the Fit, Fortwo and Yaris performed poorly in frontal collisions with midsize cars, according to the new report.

Size is important because mass, coupled with acceleration, determines the force of a crash. Injuries depend on the forces that act on the occupants in the car, not on how much external damage the car sustains. The force of a crash turns on two key attributes: the weight of the crashing vehicle, which determines how much speed must be absorbed during the impact, and the size of the vehicle, which often determines how close the front of the vehicle is to the driver--an essential indicator of the extent of injuries to the legs and torso.

"When we run our crash tests, we see that the vehicles that crush up more when we crash them are ones in which the forces on the dummies inside ... are much higher," Zuby says. In other words, the occupants of the smaller car are at greater risk of injury.

In the crash test between the C-Class and Fortwo, for example, the Smart bounced off the C-Class and turned 450 degrees before landing and displacing the instrument panel and steering wheel through the cockpit. The C-Class had almost no intrusion of the front gears into the passenger area.

Granted, the IIHS tests are much more severe than government safety standards mandate, as small-car proponents often note. The Smart Fortwo meets all U.S. government crash-test standards, including a five-star side-crash rating, notes Dave Schembri, the president of Smart USA. It also earned the highest scores for front- and side-crash worthiness from the IIHS itself.
"People drive small cars for many reasons, not just fuel economy as the IIHS states," Schembri said in a written response to the report. "People choose small vehicles because they are generally more environmentally friendly, a great value, they provide for greater driving and parking options in congested urban areas, and many consumers tell us they are simply more fun to drive."

The IIHS report also notes that advanced crash-avoidance and crash-protection safety systems, like the electronic stability program and a reinforced steel safety cage found in the Smart, do help mitigate crash results.

Honda's Fit fared slightly better in its crash with the Accord (the Fit is the safest minicar sold in the U.S., according to IIHS safety ratings), but the dummy's head struck the steering wheel through the airbag, and Institute testers recorded a "high risk of leg injury in a real-world crash of similar severity."

A written statement from Honda in response to this report said Honda has specifically addressed frontal crash compatibility between vehicles of different size and ride heights. It has done so by developing a body structure placed in all 2009 vehicles that helps absorb the energy of a frontal crash by channeling energy through both the upper and lower structural elements.

The statement also pointed out that the IIHS tests are under "unusual and extreme conditions" conducted "at higher speeds than most real-world vehicle-to-vehicle crashes."
The Yaris, in its crash with the Camry, lost a door and, despite the airbag, also forced the dummy's head against the steering wheel. Excessive head and neck injuries, plus deep gashes on the right knee of the dummy, were also reported.

Brian Lyons, the safety and quality communications manager for Toyota, says the real question for a "comprehensive safety assessment" is how well the vehicle's safety systems perform in real-world accidents. According to NHTSA data, he says, less than 0.06% of all frontal crashes occur at the crash severity selected by the IIHS.

"The IIHS test is equivalent to an 80-mph closing speed (with opposing vehicles traveling at 40 mph), a speed and energy higher than 99.1% of all real-world crashes," Lyons said in a written response to this report. "According to NHTSA, vehicle safety in all car classes continues to improve, in part due to the active and passive safety features developed by the automotive industry."
A Happy Medium
Minicars have many admirable qualities: they're affordable, they use small amounts of gas, they emit less carbon and they're easy to park. But if you're concerned about safety, there are other ways to save gas than buy a Smart Fortwo, says Christie Hyde, a spokeswoman for AAA.
Hybrid technology and turbochargers, which enable smaller engines to produce more power, can help larger cars run just as efficiently as smaller ones, she says.

"There are definitely a lot more options" than buying a Smart, Hyde says. The $11,990 coupe gets 33 miles per gallon in the city and 41 mpg on the highway.

The $14,120 Hyundai Elantra (24 mpg city/33 mpg highway) and $13,299 Suzuki SX4 (22 mpg city/29 mpg highway), not to mention the $29,160 Acura TSX (21 mpg city/30 mpg highway) and $26,225 Chevrolet Malibu hybrid (26 mpg city/34 mpg highway), all offer generous gas mileage coupled with a four-door sedan body.
Choices do abound, and no one car is right for everyone, Zuby concedes. But there are enough, he says, that deliver on fuel-efficiency as well as safety.

Volvo Improves Brake Functions

To increaseroad safety, Volvo, a world-leading Swedish auto manufacturer, improves its braking functions for the European market. If customers choose a Volvo truck with electronically controlled Brake System (EBS) in base form, more functions are incorporated to it without the burden of paying extra cost. Among the additional features now made available by the automaker are Hill Start Aid that prevents the truck from rolling backward when starting on an uphill gradient, and Wheel Brake Monitoring that alerts the driver if the brake force on the wheels abruptly falls.


The EBS system incorporated in Volvo trucks can be ordered in 3 program packages: Standard, Medium and High. The Standard package remains in the base version. Moreover, the Medium version is already equipped with the EBS system. Moreover, the base version has been upgraded with six new functions, available for both semi-trailers and rigids.
Power bleed Volvo brakes are now upgraded to boost safety in driving. "We are now providing our customers with an extremely high safety level as standard, no matter the type of truck they order," said Lars-Göran Löwenadler, safety director at Volvo Trucks. "This is entirely in line with our constant determination to increase safety for drivers and other road-users alike."EBS system has a number of sensors and valves to monitor and regulate the braking system of the vehicle. Additionally, it is possible now for the wheel and auxiliary brakes to interact with in just a short span of time to effectuate shortest viable braking distance in all sorts of driving situations. The braking force is also distributed optimally between the tractor and trailer. This is done to sustain stability even when braking.The base range of Volvo trucks is now equipped with 6 functions. The first function is Hill Start Aid, which makes it easier to move off on an uphill gradient by automatically maintaining brake pressure until the engine has built up sufficient torque to move the truck forward without slipping backward. This feature is significant when hauling a heavy load.Another significant function is the Panic Brake Assistance, which is designed to boost brake pressure in a panic braking situation. The system registers when the driver presses the brake pedal quickly to help cut the stopping distance. Other functions include the Wheel Brake Monitoring, Lining Wear Analysis, and DifferentialLock Control. These functions contribute significantly to improve road safety in driving.

Tips on taking care a Mercedez braking system

The Mercedes master cylinder that is usually used for Mercedes vehicles are manufactured by Girling, ATE, and Bendix. These master cylinders utilized two or three-chamber reservoirs, a level sensor contact built into each chamber. In times when brake fluid level is low or when there is pressure differential between two brake circuits caused by loss of fluid in either circuit, a warning light is activated.



The series 190, 420, and 500 make use of floating type front disc brake calipers while the other Benz models especially those with parking brakes and are cable actuated in rear brake rotor calipers utilizes non-floating type. All Mercedes cars have brake pad wear indicators and differential pressure warning indicator. The 420 and 500 series have inner pads only while the Anti-Lock Brake System is offered as a standard feature on the 420SEL, 300 and 560 series and optional for the 190 series. For the diesel models a vacuum pump is incorporated to provide vacuum to the power brake unit. Adjusting Pedal Height The height of the pedal measured from pedal pad to pedal stop should be 150mm.

To get the correct pedal height adjust the loosen lock nuts and turn stop light switch afterwards tighten lock nuts and pedal free play 5-15 mm. Above the brake pedal is the stoplight switch, loosen lock nuts and adjust switch in such a way that the contact button extends 6-8mm and then afterwards tighten lock nuts.

Parking Brake

1. Before raising the vehicle it is best to remove only one lug bolt at each rear wheel.
2. Try to rotate wheel until lug bolt hole is positioned over parking brake adjuster at an angle of 45 degrees forward for diagonal swing axle and 90 degrees forward for diagonal swing axle with starting torque compensation. And remember that parking brake must be adjusted if the brake pedal can be depressed by more than 2 steps of 6 without any braking effect. Try not to try to alter screw on parking brake intermediate lever since these screws are for balancing cable lengths only.

3. using a screwdriver inserted through the lug bolt hole, hand turn the adjuster until rear wheel can no longer be turned, back off the adjuster until it can be turned without the dragging the wheel.

Checking the Brake Warning Light
1. On the dash is mounted a dual warning light, try to turn the ignition on. Normally you will see a light glowing once parking brake lever is pulled tone notch and goes off when brake lever is full released.
2. To test the circuit warning sensor, again turn on the ignition, release the parking brake and make sure that the light is off. Open the bleeder screw on one wheel and depress brake pedal and the light should light up.
3. Close the bleeder screw, refill the brake fluid and bleed system. Make sure also that light goes out after testing and if the light didn’t turn off then the differential pressure pin of the Mercedes brake master cylinder should be reset.

Types and styles of break lathe repair system

Replacing drums, rotors, and other sections of the braking system can be an expensive venture. One of the best ways to lower this cost is by doing a brake lathe repair that resurfaces these items to restore their effectiveness. Brake lathe parts and machines are available that can repair all different styles and fix a variety of problems, including sticking and noise. Whether you are an at-home mechanic or working in a professional repair shop, these systems allow you to achieve the highest quality repair. Many different styles and models exist to help you reach this goal.

Bench Brake Lathe Repair Systems


Bench type models require you to remove the drums and rotors from the vehicle in order to repair them. These are commonly found in private and commercial settings. To use these systems, you only have to set the part into the machine and start the cutting process. With a high quality machine and practice, you can produce parts that are equivalent or even better quality than the original piece. The brake lathe parts, known as adapters and mounting cones, determine the majority of the quality. If you are looking for the best quality, these are the brake lathe parts that you want to be careful about selecting. If they begin to wear, replace them immediately.With bench units, you have the option of single, variable, or high-speed styles. Digital measuring and printouts are another great option for achieving the best possible results. Some of these repair machines are designed specifically for rotors or drums. Other units can repair both, which is a huge advantage over the second type known as an on-car system.

On-Car Brake Lathes
A great addition to bench styles is on-car brake lathe repair systems because they allow the work to be performed directly on the car. One of the biggest benefits to this style is that there is no risk of wrecking the hub or wheel bearings because all of those parts can be left in place. They are also known for their ability to reduce the risk of runout on the rotor and uneven surfaces.This type of system attaches in one of two ways. One style, called a caliper mount, attaches directly to the knuckle where the caliper mounts. On the down side, it requires some movement in the wheel bearing which means you may need to tighten adjustable styles. A hub-mounted style is also available. It can produce the same level of quality, but has similar issues to caliper-mount versions.The biggest downfall of both brake lathe repair systems is that they need to be set up perfectly in order to get a high quality repair. Standard models are made with either a one or a three-point system with a dial to help you define the perfect setup. To help eliminate this problem, some have brake lathe parts, such as a computer system, to set up the equipment accurately with very little effort.

Guides on Keeping The Brakes Reliable

Being on a freeway can be tough. You have to act as though you're in one of those fast car movies that don't seem to notice that there is a steep cliff ahead. It has become a race. The first one to pass it goes home early. But what if you are hurrying and doing a hundred on the freeway when suddenly, you notice a very important part of your driving aspect is missing. You freak out knowing that your breaks aren't working. Worst part is, you see traffic up ahead. Is this it for you? This is something you don't want to experience.



If you ask anyone that owns a car, the most important thing to do before driving off somewhere is always checking the credibility of your brakes. You have to inspect the brake rotors, pads, and be sure that you have enough brake fluid to withstand tough rush hours.The good thing about vehicles today is that drivers can now check the level of their brake fluid or the status of it without even opening the lid. This reservoir is located at the side of the driver just behind the engine bay. The moment you have spotted the reservoir, you have to replace your brake fluid.
Once you find out that your fluid is low, don't fret because you can fill it up in no time following some simple instructions.Before opening the cap, remove foreign materials surrounding it. Better yet, wipe it clean.Use a rag or a piece of cloth that you have never used for anything else. You have to realize that your brake system is sensitive enough that when it catches a foreign material inside it, this would cause your engine some trouble. Better clean than sorry.
The moment you take off the cap, slowly pour the brake fluid into the reservoir till it rises to the desired level. Do not let it overflow. Replace the cap and wipe off smudges or spills. Do this process whenever you notice that the brake fluid is becoming low. The checking of the pads and rotors must be done every other day before going someplace. You have to remember not to shake the bottle of fluid before dipping it into your car. Bubbles can cause a few problems. Now that you're done, have a safe trip!

Free Tips on How to Replace Brake Pads

Brake pads naturally wear out over time. Luckily, it is not as difficult to replace them as you may think. The tools that you need for this project include a lug wrench, c-clamp, adjustable or open wrench, Allen wrenches, hammer, and a bungee cord. When you jack up your car, make sure that you have it supported by blocks or jack stands. It is never safe to work on a car that is supported by a jack only. The first thing you need to do is remove the wheel. The lugs should be easy to take out, it is best to do so from the bottom up.



Next, in order to remove the brake pads you must first remove the brake caliper. The brake caliper can be located just above the lug bolts, sitting on top of the brake disc. There is a bolt that keeps the caliper in place. You can remove it easily using the suitable wrench. There are different types of bolts that could be keeping it in place, so it is a good idea to have different wrenches handy. Now you can pull the caliper off by pulling directly up. You may need to wiggle it a bit in order to loosen it. Now you can sit the caliper some place convenient, or use your bungee cord to tie it up.Now comes the time to remove the brake pads. They should actually slide right out without giving you any trouble. Remember how they are attached though, because you will need to know this when you are installing the fresh ones. If you are driving an older vehicle, you may need to tap them with your hammer a bit to get them unstuck. There may be some small metal tabs keeping the pads in place as well. If so, make sure you hang onto them; you will need them when you put the new pads in.
Now you can easily slide your new brake pads in, using the metal tabs to keep them in place if applicable. Now with your new pads affixed, you should adjust the brake piston. This piece of equipment adjusts as your pads wear out in order to keep your brakes working efficiently. To readjust it, you need your c-clamp. Put the end of the clamp with the screw against the piston. The other end should rest behind the caliper assembly. Now just slowly tighten the clamp until the piston has moved to a point where you can insert the pads easily.The next thing you need to do is slide the caliper assembly over your new pads. Replace the bolts. At this point, it is a good idea to push down the brake petal a few times so that you may be assured of your brake pressure. Now you can replace the wheel and the lug nuts. It is a good idea to make sure that the lug nuts are truly secure. At this point you have successfully changed the brake pads on your car.

Guides on Break Shake - Machine the Rotors or Get it Replaced

If the steering wheel shakes when the brakes are applied, the brake rotors most likely have excessive side to side run-out or they are more commonly known as being warped. Auto techs call this brake shake or brake pulsation. Brake rotors being warped is not a dangerous condition by itself, but it can be very annoying. The brake pads may not need to be replaced, but if they are more than half worn it would be a good time to consider replacing them. Most shops will check brakes for free, it's best to make sure they use a micrometer to measure the thickness of the rotors to verify if they are legally able to be machined (also known as turned or resurfaced).
Replace or not.

Many vehicles today have very thin rotors from the factory, depending on the thickness there may not be an option to machine them. Many replacement rotors are low priced depending on the make and model of the vehicle. It may be a good idea to replace the rotors if the replacements are priced well, instead of machining the old ones. After machining the rotors they are physically thinner and more susceptible to being warped again. In the past I owned a vehicle that warped rotors frequently. I would machine them myself using the brake lathe at the shop I worked at and the rotors would warp again in about six months time. I finally bought some aftermarket replacement rotors for around $30 a piece and put those on and never had anymore pulsation problems.
Types of Brake Lathes. There are two types of brake lathes. There is the conventional brake lathe that the technician uses to machine the rotor off the vehicle. And there is the on the car brake lathe used to machine the brake rotor on the vehicle. The best way to machine brake rotors is on the car. The reason is because of the possibility of other components having run-out. When rotors are machined on the car, any run-out in the wheel hub is compensated for. The result is a much better cut that allows the rotor to be machined much more precisely. Rotors that are machined on the vehicle have less re-occurrences of being warped as quickly when compared to rotors being machined off the vehicle. So if possible consumers should opt to find a repair shop that has the capability to machine rotors on the car if needed. Auto repair shops that have on the car brake lathes realize the importance of having the right auto tools and equipment to service their customer's cars properly.

A better braking system? Free Tips on How to clean your ABS wheel sensor

Does your ABS light come on consistently and you do not know what is wrong! Well, when you check your code, you may see that it says that your front wheel sensor is damaged. However, that is not always the case. A lot of times, your ABS wheel sensor is just fine; they just need to be cleaned. Of course, if you take it to a shop, they are going to tell you that you need a new one. So we are going to go over how you can clean your own ABS wheel sensor in your Toyota and save yourself a lot of money. After you clean it, if you are still having the problem, you will need a new one. However, most people have noted that nine times out of ten, this does indeed fix their problem.

First of all, before you get started, you are going to want to make sure you have everything that you need to perform the job. The only things that you are really going to need are a ratchet, jack, wheel lock and, of course, a rag or paper towel to clean it off with. After you have all of this stuff, you can feel free to get started. This should only take you an hour or two to do yourself.



Getting Started On Your Wheel Sensor
First, you have to choose which side you want to get started on. You can choose either the passenger side or the driver side; it does not really matter. However, whichever side you do choose, that is the side that you, of course, need to jack up first. Before you jack up the car, you need to turn the steering wheel to the opposite side that you are working on. For example, if you are working on the driver side, then you are going to want to turn the wheel to the passenger side. Also, when you get it jacked up. You should use a jack stand, not just the jack. You never know how long you will need to have this car jacked up, so you will want the jack stand.After you turn the wheel and get everything all set up, you will notice that you should be able to locate the ABS wheel sensor very easily. It should be located directly mounted to the knuckle. To take this off, you are going to have to remove the two bolts that are holding them in place. In most Toyota cars, they are 10mm bolts. However, some of them can change from time to time. Overall, there will be about four bolts you have to take out. To do this, just follow the ABS sensor around so that you can remove all of the bolts. When you get the sensor off, you will notice that it is all covered in dirt. Take your rag or paper towel, and start whipping it off. As you do, you will notice that the very middle of it has a sliver strip that you could not see before. A lot of times, dirt blocks this and can cause problems, as you found out. After cleaning it, simply reverse the steps you did to reinstall it. Also, be sure to check both of the front ABS sensors. The one on both sides of the car!

Still Having Problems
Most of the time the procedure discussed above will fix any problem that you are having with your ABS sensor. If you have cleaned both of the front sensors and there are still problems, then you do have a damaged ABS sensor. At this point, you need to get new ones and replace them. If you want, you will be able to install them the same way you cleaned the other ones. However, instead of cleaning the old ones and putting them back on, you can simply put on the new ones. Overall, this is a one day job that can save you a ton of money. Most people do not notice how much money that they can save by doing this themselves until they actually do it!

Checking Brake and Brake Fluid

The brakes in your car have got to be the component that you rely on the most. Though you may not consciously think about it, you sure would if they suddenly didn’t work. Don’t forget about your brakes. They need maintenance as much as any other part of the vehicle does. Checking the brakes as well as the brake fluid is something that you should have written on your calendar along with things like oil change and transmission flush.Start by checking to see if your brake fluid is topped up enough. Identify where the brake fluid reservoir is. It should be clearly labelled like everything else on your car. If you aren’t sure you better check with your manual to confirm where the brake fluid can be found so you do not make a mistake and confuse it with something else.

The brake fluid reservoir should be clearly marked with minimum and maximum to indicate the proper levels. Some of these reservoirs are see through so you don’t need to look inside. However, if not you will have to remove the cap to look in and see how high the fluid is. If the fluid is low then simply add more brake fluid until you reach the full line. But make sure it is brake fluid designed for your make and model of vehicle. If you really are not comfortable with doing this you can always have a professional do it. Some may even show you how.

You should take a good look at all of the components that make up your brake system. Look for any signs of obvious wear or damage. If there is anything you’re not sure about, take a photo or make notes so you can look it up or ask a mechanic if it’s normal. Brake pads also need to be checked and replaced every so often. Check for signs of wear and have them serviced if you see any.Pay attention to your brakes when you drive the car. Make note of any squeals you hear or anything abnormal you feel, like sticking. Don’t put stuff like that off hoping it will get better. Some vehicles experience squealing brakes when they are cold or wet. However, if your brakes always make noise then it is time to see your dealer or mechanic.

If you do not know how often your brakes should be professionally serviced, check your user manual that came with the vehicle. Someone that is certified can change brake pads, fluid and anything else that you may not be able to do yourself. Your brakes are easily the hardest working part of your car and in some cases like bad weather, they work even harder. Though you can check brake fluid yourself, a professional should check the rest of the braking system at least once a year.

Checking the brakes over as well as the brake fluid is part of increasing the lifespan of your vehicle. Safety should always be your first concern when it comes to driving and car care.

Free Tips on Performing a Radiator Flush

The car's radiator is responsible for keeping your engine cool and prevents it from overheating. However, as time passes, the radiator can get quite dirty and will need to be cleaned in order to perform efficiently in keeping your engine cool. Cleaning the radiator by performing a radiator flush is inexpensive and will prevent expensive damages to your car's engine. Also, it is something that you can do yourself.Before you perform a radiator flush, you need to make sure that you have everything that you need to perform it. There's nothing more frustrating than draining your radiator only to realize that you need something from the auto parts store that is in another part of town to completely perform the flush.What you will need is a Phillips head screwdriver or a wrench (depending on what the radiator requires), a cloth rag, coolant, radiator flush solution, funnel, and a used coolant receptacle.Before you perform the radiator flush, you need to make sure that your engine is completely cool. If you just used your car, let it cool for a few hours, or perform the flush the next day.Now that you are ready to perform the radiator flush, the first step is to drain the radiator of the old coolant. Locate the drain plug, which could be anywhere along the bottom of the radiator. It will either be a screw or a bolt plug or even a petcock. Before you loosen it and let the old coolant drain out, be sure that the used coolant receptacle is placed under the drain.After the radiator is completely drained, replace the drain plug and open the radiator cap. Add the contents of the radiator flush solution to the radiator and fill it to the top with water.Replace the radiator cap and make sure it's tight.After that, start the car and let it run until it gets to its operating temperature or when you see that temp gauge reach the temperature level it normally stays at.Then, turn your heater on and move the temperature control to the hottest position. Let the car and the heater run for about 10 to 15 minutes and turn the car off as well as the heater. Wait until the engine cools off. If the radiator cap is still hot to the touch, it's still hot to open.Once the engine has cooled down, the next step is to drain the radiator again.Open the drain plug and empty the contents in the radiator. Just remember that nothing from the radiator should leak onto the ground.Now that the radiator is cleaned, the next step is to replace the radiator drain plug or close the petcock. Then, open the radiator cap and refill the radiator with fresh coolant. It is recommended that you fill the radiator with 1:1 mixture of coolant and water. This means that 50 percent should be coolant and the remaining 50 percent should be water. After you fill the radiator, you can fill the plastic coolant reservoir with the same coolant and water mixture.Tighten everything, including the caps and you are ready to go. With a clean radiator, you can be sure that you are keeping your car's engine properly maintained and perform efficiently.

Improved refrigerant, A/C systems Tips

Any mechanic knows, ability to present comprehensive service to the customers, being capable to offer repairs & care for all the aspects of motorcar maintenance program is a key to retain customers. The AC is standard across all the models nowadays, and while in past, air conditioning maintenance was highly skilled & niche marketplace, it is now essential side of business & key to any of the workshop's sustained success.To make sure that the refrigerant is improved properly from car's AC system at time of servicing, workshop should use automotive air conditioning machine. These particular devices prevent free through venting of the CFC gases. As EPA guidelines need that when car is getting serviced, Freon, and CFC12, which is been used as coolant must be collected & recycled sequentially that it is not been released in environment where it will potentially damage ozone layer.Refrigerant used in the most motorcar AC systems is generally based on the chlorofluorocarbons, that is linked with causing the damage to ozone layer, and control of these materials is of concern to environmental agency. Whenever car AC system experiences maintenance, correct care should be taken in order to protect environment from release of the CFCs, & this is done best by using the automotive air conditioning Machines.Reusing Freon gas instead of allowing it to get vent in atmosphere protects environment. But, when refrigerant is gathered from car's AC it is contaminated with oil, water, and other liquids, which are used in the cars. Using automotive air conditioning machines, it is likely to process refrigerant & remove other fluids from that, allowing it to get reused, in a same system like it has got drained from, or in some other car altogether.The automotive air conditioning dynamo electric machine is able to provide enough rotational production for starting the engine by running rotor at very high speed in motor operation form for starting engine, as a result obviating need for increasing the size thereof. In motor operation form, electromagnetic clutch fan connects to the electromagnetic clutch major body and as well engages cylindrical member in order to break cylindrical member. The internal gear portion gives fixed element, & torque of rotor is been transmitted to power transmission tool via rotor shaft, sun gear, planetary gear, and carrier.Alternators are been used in the modern autos to charge battery as well as to power car's electric system when the engine is running. The alternators have great benefit on direct current generators of not making use of commutator that makes it simpler, less costly, as well as more rugged than DC generator.If presenting AC repairs & servicing is main key to business, then having right tools for job is necessary. Getting it correct at beginning while you choose the AC coolant revival machine often means selecting model from Cool Tech range. All of these robust & very regarded specialist apparatus are at center of any severe AC shop, & thanks to their competence and good value for money, can pay for himself or herself again and again.

Put a turbo on an engine with an 10:1 compression ratio and watch it go bang!

"Fully charged"

The basic reason for forced induction (turbo or supercharger) is not to increase compression or the maximum pressure in an engine cylinder, it is to increase volumetric efficiency (the efficiency of the engine at drawing in air) although forced induction is the most effective method of upping compression.
Things to take into account when adding a turbo to a non turbo car (NASP or naturally aspirated engine).
When a naturally aspirated engine sucks air in, it can only draw so much in before the intake valve closes and seals the cylinder. The average N/A engine will pull in around 60% of its volume, so as a result is only 60% volume efficient. The more highly tuned an engine is the more efficient it will be, a typical Torquecars member will have already spend much time and effort tuning their engines but still struggle to get anything approaching 85% efficiency. The best way to improve this is to force the air/fuel mixture into the cylinders (forced induction) thus filling them more. The average forced induction engine runs from 110% to 150% volumetric efficiency.
Some examples of the result. a 2.0 N/A motor will use effectively around 1200-1300cc of its capacity. A turbo'd or supercharged 2.0 will use much more of it capacity, producing more power as it is able to burn more fuel. The more boost you run, the more efficient the engine hence we have 1.4 litre turbo engines producing as much power as large v6's. But the main benefit from increasing boost is to increase the final compression ratio and getting a better bang from the air/fuel mix in your cylinders (the actual engines compression ratio stays the same but as there is more air coming into the engine it will become more compressed).
If you increase the amount of air/fuel in the cylinders, then as a result you will increase the compression, which could be too much. In order to keep the final running compression the same, the initial compression (without boost) has to be dropped to compensate. More air will enable more oxygen to be available for burning and with the addition of additional fuel the engine will release more power. Turbo charging is the best way to increase the efficiency of an engine. When adding a turbo to an engine which was not originally designed for a turbo there are some major complications to take into account.

Detonation or knock - this is where the fuel ignites under pressure before the spark happens. This will cause a piston to move in the opposite direction if it has not reached the top dead center and will have disastrous consequences for the engine. As the intake valve will also generally be open the whole intake manifold, injectors and air filter will effectively carry the exhaust of the combustion and the movement of the piston in the wrong direction will cause internal damage and many components of an engine will be ruined.
To avoid this from happening you will need to lower the compression of the engine, and or restrict the turbo to a low boost threshold. (Low compression engines plus a turbo will also avoid some of the turbo lag problems inherent in most turbo applications.) The best turbos to add to a non turbo NASP (Naturally aspirated) engine are small. To lower the compression you can go with a re bore and fit lower compression pistons, you can add a stroker kit to alter the compression ratio or you can get a larger head and thick head gasket thus increasing the cylinder size and reducing the compression ratio. You need to aim for around a 7:1 compression ratio if you are adding a turbo, anything above 9:1 you will have problems. In all cases you should use the highest octane fuel that you can find as the higher the octane the more resistant the fuel is to engine knock.If you can reduce the boost pressure to 5-7psi (as opposed to 25-35psi), and used the higher octane fuels available (e.g. Shell Optimax) you should be able to run a turbo on a standard engine with around the 9:1 compression ratio. For information on Octane and its effect on engine knock read our octane article.

When adding a turbo, for maximum performance gains, you should also get the head flowed increase the port size, fit bigger valves and go with a larger exhaust header and system as there will be a much larger volume flowing through the engine. Fitting a boost controller will allow you to experiment on a rolling road while attached to diagnostic equipment to find the optimum boost pressure.
Particular attention should be paid to fuelling. More air requires more fuel or you risk the danger of burning too lean. You also want to avoid overfuelling when the boost from the turbo drops as this can destroy the engine. On most turbo applications it is not likely that the cars existing fuel delivery system will be able to deliver sufficient fuel so you will need to uprate the fuel pressure with a new pump and fuel pressure regulator, the injectors will also need uprating. The car computer will also need to take into account the new fuelling requirements of a turbo, especially with regard to throttle position and wastegate control and rapidly changing fuel requirements between on and off boost conditions.
Most kits contain only the necessary parts to physically get the turbo onto the engine such as an exhaust header and the necessary intake plumbing to the air filter.
Turbos are expensive but will add the most power for your money. You should allow about 40 hours for fitting.

Pro and Cons of Adding Superchargers

Superchargers

A supercharger is quite simply an air compressor which helps push more air into an engine.
These are driven by a belt from the engine effectively creating pull on the engine sapping up to 30% of the engines power.
For this reason superchargers are not as efficient as turbo chargers, which are driven from 'spare' energy taken from waste exhaust gases.

The big advantage for superchargers is that they produce additional power from much lower engine speeds and do not suffer from the inherent lag of turbos. There are two main types of supercharger, a positive displacement supercharger, which gives a fairly constant level of boost making tuning a much simpler process, and dynamic compressors, which provide boost in proportion to the engines speed.
Any compression of air will raise the air temperature, so add an intercooler to keep the air charge cool.

It is better to fit a supercharger to a Naturally aspirated engine than going for a turbo because you will have much more control over the power and it will be delivered in a more consistent manner establishing a good base for ECU tuning to take full advantage of the power.
If adding forced induction to a standard naturally aspirated engine, a word of caution about engine knock.
This is where pressure in the engine causes the air/fuel to prematurely ignite causing extensive engine damage.

Just as with a turbo you would need to lower the compression ratio of the engine in relation to the amount of boost you are putting into the engine.
Ideally you want to lower the compression of an engine to around 8:1 to allow a reasonable level of boost, although this varies from application to application and with water injection this can be safely exceeded.

Typically superchargers are more expensive to make than turbo chargers. As demand increases these costs will eventually come down to affordable levels and aftermarket kits will be available for most popular engines.
The other advantage of a supercharger is that the charge temperature is substantially lower than an equivalent turbo application and cooler air carries more oxygen which means more fuel can be burned therefore releasing more power.

Any form of compression of air creates a temperature rise so an intercooler is still a good idea on a supercharged engine. You will also need to uprate your fuelling.
Manufacturers are now producing dual forced induction systems. These give a good compromise between low down boost and top end power. Offerings such as Volkswagens 1.4 twincharger engine can produce a massive 168hp and 177 lb-ft torque, and still return fuel consumption around 40mpg. A smaller engine is also lighter and smaller so fairly small cars can be fitted with these engines and offer very good performance.As modern engines are so well built there is a lot of scope for the addition of forced air induction without dramatically impairing reliability.
The supercharger is also an easier bolt on upgrade when compared with a turbo.
There are also some interesting projects around where superchargers are being added to turbo engined cars to provide the best of both worlds.

Tips for Door Panels and Door Speaker

For some, the prospect of changing out speakers is a daunting one, since you have to remove the door panels to access the speakers tucked away within its walls. They are not a tricky as they seem, if you know the right techniques.The first thing to do is to locate any screws holding the panel in place. These are generally found in or under the armrest piece, in the door opener latch, or near the bottom of the door panel. Remove as many as you can find to start.With the screws removed, you will need to carefully pry the door panel off the door. Start in the bottom corner nearest the speaker. Gently pull the panel until it pops loose.



There are usually several clips holding it in place. Work around the bottom of the door panel popping the clips out. Be careful to not break them, because you will need them to reinstall it. Continue around the outside of the panel until you have removed as many of the clips as you can. If you have power windows, doors, etc, remove the control panel from the door panel. It is usually clipped in place, and can be carefully pried out. Look for small notches that may give away the position of the clips. If you have mechanical windows, you will need to push the door panel into the door at the window crank, and look for the snap ring clip holding it in place. With a thin flathead screwdriver, pop the clip loose, taking special note of where it goes, as you will need it to secure the piece back in place. Once this is removed, you should have enough clearance to reach the speaker. If not, you can attempt to completely remove the door panel by sliding it upwards and out of the window compartment. You may be caught up by the door opener latch. These can be a little tricky, as some will slide in place horizontally, screw in, or pop out. Look for screws, and if you don't find any, try sliding it horizontally towards the inside. If that doesn't work, see if it pops straight out. It will be connected to the bars that pull the door latch, so they will have to be positioned correctly for the door panel to be removed. If there is a triangular piece of trim in the top corner of the door panel, you will need to remove it also. It also clips in place and can be removed. This should allow the door panel to slide out, assuming you have disconnected the control panels electrical wires.You should now be in full view of the door speaker. it can be removed by removing the four screws holding it in place. You may also find that the connectors on these speakers won't work for your aftermarket ones, so you will have to clip the wires and attach the end connectors provided with your speakers. Pay attention to positive and negative here.

If you are unsure of what is what, there are a few ways to check. Look at the terminals on the factory speaker. It may have a "+" and "-" sign designating positive and negative. If it doesn't tell you, you can log on to installdr.com and look up the color codes for the speaker, or try the battery test. Take a good charged battery and place one of the factory speaker wires (attached to the speaker) on the positive, and one on the negative of the battery. If the speaker pushes out, the polarity is correct as you have it, and attach the wires accordingly. If it pushes in, the polarity is reversed, so reverse the battery and try again. If it pushes out, wire the speakers following that polarity.Install the speaker in the door by replacing the 4 screws and securing it in place, and reinstalling the door panel. be sure to slide it back down in place, and line up the clips exactly before applying pressure to reattach them. You don't want to break any of those. Finish screwing the door in place, then attach the window control panel/window crank, and congratulations, your done!

Body and Bonets Vents for a sporter looking car

Complete the motorsport look with a vent in the bonnet.
These can range from subtle slits to a honeycomb of vents that cover up to 50% of the bonnet area.
Popularised in teen tuning films the vents are certainly here to stay. The larger the vent the bigger the effect this will have on the cars aerodynamics so don't go too mad.
Before you take an angle grinder or jigsaw to your car plan in advance. Mark out where the main support frame is and avoid cutting it as this will dramatically affect the rigidity of the bonnet.
On a frosty morning if you run the engine the supports will generally be the last part of the bonnet to defrost so this can be a fool proof way of approximating their whereabouts. Otherwise use large sheets of paper stuck together to fabricate a pattern from which you can decide where to make the cuts.Using black card you can see what the vents will look like and these will also make a handy template for your cuts.

Vents can give your car a really aggressive and sporty look. Plan your look first and mark out the vents with black card.
There are a number of methods available. Cut your bonnet and fabricate the vents yourself. This is the cheapest option but you will need to roll the edges of the cut so they are smooth and it is hard to get a good straight symmetrical cut in the bonnet.
Please don't attempt to cut the bonnet while it is still on the car, even if you have propped it open as this is the best way to get an off symmetrical cut and or seriously injure yourself. You will also need to check where the main under bonnet supports are before cutting to make sure you don't undermine the strength of the bonnet.



The most expensive and best looking route of getting a bonnet vent is to buy a bonnet with pre-cut vents or moulded vent panels as in the picture above and then you would apply a protective mesh underneath them.
This undoubtedly gives the best finish and the carbon fibre bonnets look great. This method insures that you will have a smooth professional looking finish and you can leave the bonnet unpainted or paint in a matching or contrasting colour or even add a really cool paint effect.
Alternatively you could buy stick on vents and use these to finish off your diy cut outs. This can be a handy way of finishing off a DIY cut job but you must spend a great deal of time blending it in with the rest of the bonnet and take more time spraying and sanding to get a seamless join.
The better quality the plastic part you use the better the end effect will be. Use the plastic painting and car spraying articles to guide you and help get the perfect finish but use twice as many coats and sand down between coats if you want a perfect finish.

Finish off the new vent with a good quality of mesh. Various types of mesh are available and the mesh can be painted black, polished or given a paint effect finish. Always ensure that if you go with a polished metal finish mesh that the metal will not rust as this will not only look awful but will quickly spread to other parts of the car.

Uprating A Turbo for a greater engine power

When it comes to Turbo tuning you have pretty much unlimited potential and a wide selection of opotions.
The more power you want from a turbo the greater the amount of heat and the bigger the stress on the internal components.
A petrol engines turbo can reach temperatures up to 1100 degrees and speeds of 100,000 to 150,000 rpm with some modern small turbos reaching almost double that. A failed oil seal or worn bearing will be a kiss of death to a turbo and this is the biggest risk to a turbo at full throttle and high revs.
There are 2 main routes to upgrade your turbo. The first is relatively straightforward and can be carried out simply and easily by a reasonably competent mechanic. This is where an OEM (Original Equipment Manufacture) turbo is stripped down and reworked internally.
This is sometimes referred to an an aftermarket turbo although it still conforms to your standard turbo in terms of fitments and physical dimensions. You can get aftermarket turbo kits from a wide variety of retailers and turbo specialists.
Attention is given to the air intake aperture shape and turbine profile to maximise the flow of exhaust and air within the turbo housing.

Uprating the turbine fin shapes and geometry for maximum airflow and uprating the thrust bearings to ball bearings and fitting stronger seals will enable the turbo to tolerate much higher operating pressures and operate more freely. As the external parts of the turbo are the same as standard this becomes a swap in replacement.

We strongly recommend an upgrade to a ball bearing based turbo unit - they spool up faster, tolerate higher speeds and hotter temperatures.

Path 2 involves a more dramatic turbo design. All aspects of the turbo are rebuilt and often additional oil pipes and cooling pipes are included. Turbos are often cannibalised with the optimum parts from each formed into a hybrid unit.
Conversion to twin turbos and single large turbo replacements fall into this category although at the lower end of the spectrum many aftermarket turbo upgrade applications will only require a modified exhaust down pipe and perhaps due to taking up a little more space in the engine bay will require a few pipes and cables to be re-routed.
For best results the ECU (engine control unit) should be remapped so the characteristics of the turbo can be taken into account and maximum power can be extracted. More air in the engine will also require more fuel and depending on how much extra power you are wanting to extract you will also need to uprate the injectors and the fuel pump.
Although many of these uprated turbos are available off the shelf you are better off going to a specialist and detailing your desired requirements. Here are some of the options and goals you will need to think about. Generally you need to choose the power curve (do you want a large peak or wide torque band, are you after less lag and more instantaneous power although this will be at the cost of a slightly lower peak power. Conversely a higher peak power will usually mean a larger amount of lag at lower revs.

A large turbo will tend to give a big amount of lag at low revs and massive power hike at high revs. A twin turbo setup and good quality boost controller can minimise the amount of lag at low revs and give a good power gain throughout the rev range. It it also possible to have a small turbo and large turbo set up with a controller to use the small turbo at low revs and kick in the larger one as the revs increase. Quad turbo installations are also being introduced along with cars that run a supercharger and turbo simultaneously and various types of high-tech components such as ceramics, variable geometry turbines and ball bearings.
All types of turbo including diesel turbos can be upgraded in this way and 100% power gains are possible. (As turbo diesel engines run less hot that petrol counterparts the turbos tend to be larger and therefore have more scope for modification as an OEM spec unit.)
As with all modifications the higher the power gain the lower the reliability of the engine. When looking at increasing the engine power by over 70% you really should be thinking about uprating the internals of the engine and adding forged pistons etc..
Uprate the fuelling and may well need a custom boost controller and BOV. Whatever option you go for we strongly recommend an upgrade to a ball bearing based turbo unit as these spool up much faster, can tolerate higher speeds and hotter temperatures and are generally more reliable than the thrust bearing types of turbo.

Latest Car Alarm and Demobilisers Tips

Protecting your car from auto theftWhile you may be worrying about your car’s gas mileage, and or thinking about a new paint job, there’s something else you might want to keep in mind. Technology in car protection is constantly improving, and one of your first priorities when thinking about your car is its safety. What would happen if someone tried breaking into your car? Would you be informed? Would they be able to start the car? These are some things you might want to look into when choosing your car’s safety.You might have the infamous sound alarm. Upon disturbance, these will emit a loud, often continuous cacophony, consisting often of the car’s horn, various noises, and sometimes a prerecorded voice. The effectiveness of this is that a criminal doesn’t want to get caught. The instant your alarm goes off, the vandal or thief will likely go running. While you may not catch the crook, your will be where you left it, hopefully without a scratch.Arming and disarming the alarm can be rather easy. Often, it involves the keys, and the driver can manually shut off the alarm by placing their key in the door. They may also be able to disengage the alarm from a button, usually attachable to the keys. There is also sometimes a button hidden inside the car to override the alarm.How the alarm is triggered depends on the make and model of your vehicle. There are also many after market alarms, which can be purchased and installed after buying your car. These can be set off from opening the doors or trunk, and also when the hood is opened, or the ignition is turned on. They can also be triggered by an impact to the car, or a difference in voltage in the car, though the latter has become less useful, as car technology is starting to incorporate more electronics into vehicles.Sirens and alarms, however, are not entirely effective. Some people might be able to get away with the car before you can get to it. Also, due to the number of alarms set off by accident in the past, people in urban areas are generally not prone to respond to a car alarm. So, what’s another good security precaution? Car immobilizers!Car immobilizers are devices that prevent an unauthorized person in your car from driving away with it. It can prevent hotwiring, because the car will only start when the correct key is inserted. This is because the key contains a miniature circuit, and that will connect the electricity in the car. These have proven so efficient, that they are mandatory in all new cars in several nations, since as early as 1997.In some cases, attempts to use the car will be reported through satellite or mobile phone. Some people might even try using a unauthorized copy of the key, but while that will not be sequenced, the car will still not start, and the report will be made. These immobilizers, like the alarms, can be purchased post-market, for older cars, which tend to be candidates for small auto theft.The price of these security measures depends on where you get them, and how efficient they are. But, regardless of the cost, it’s a definite investment to have one installed into your car. You’re pouring the money into your car for insurance, gas, and tune ups anyway, and this is surely just as important as the other things.

Tips on checking a drive belt

A drive belt is a seamless belt that is used to transmit torque and power from one wheel or shaft to another in a machine or any mechanical system, in this instance a vehicle. A belt drive system typically involves more than two fixed pulleys working together and is very important in the transmission of motion in a machine. In vehicles, it powers the water pump, the air conditioning, power steering, brakes and alternator among other components. It is therefore very important for vehicle owners to regularly check on the drive belt each time they change the oil. This is to ensure that it is in proper condition and will not negatively affect the system. It is not advisable as it is risky to drive a vehicle with a worn out drive belt.The first thing to look out for is the tension and general condition of the belt to ensure that the vehicle is always ready to perform. An over stretched belt will easily wear. There are several things to look out for when inspecting the drive belt. These are cracks, the presence of frays, missing ribs or the presence of any logged foreign material. If one observes tiny cracks in grooves, that is normal but deep fissures, splits as well as frayed edges or cracks that run parallel to the ribs should be a cause for alarm. Other warning signs include a belt that exhibits a glossy appearance or one that has some of its rib sections, half an inch or longer, missing. Additionally, one should ensure that they inspect the entire length of the belt surface. If any of the above mentioned elements are observed then it is time to change the drive belt. Sometimes, the vehicle may produce a squealing sound. This typically points out to a loose or worn out drive belt. This is because a loose belt may slip and subsequently produce a squealing sound, causing the alternator to vibrate rapidly, thereby wearing it out more easily. If the squeal emanates from underneath the hood, then it is highly probable that the drive belt is either loose or damaged and it will need to be replaced. Belts are in essence supposed to run for up to 50, 000 miles but if signs of wear are observed then it is advisable to replace it.Even though it is important to have the car checked by a certified repair shop, it is also important to be proactive and inspect the drive belt personally. Thus, if the drive belt is to be replaced one could either replace the belt personally or hire mechanic to replace it. This is very important as goes a long way in preventing problems related to the drive belt and acts to maintain the vehicle. However, as a safety precaution, always turn off the engine before belt inspection and do not work around an electric fan if the engine has not cooled off completely. To ensure that the fan does not engage during check up, it is important to disconnect it.

Most Common Car Problems You Encountered

You have to do more than just fill up your car with petrol and occasionally clean the windows. The American Automobile Association conducted nationwide clinics at 25 different AAA clubs that included inspecting 6,082 vehicles to find out the five most common car problems--all of which are easy to fix with just a little time and not too much money.

1. Tyre pressureDrivers should check tyre pressure at least once a month to ensure tyres are not under- or over-inflated. Low pressure in the tyres can increase wear and fuel consumption, while having too much pressure may reduce traction. Keeping tyres properly aligned will also help assure longer tyre life and improve fuel economy. One should always take care of his car and get the regular car repairs done.

2. A clogged air filterMaintain and replace air filters as often as is recommended in your owner's manual to ensure better air flow through the engine. This, in turn, will improve engine efficiency and result in more power and better fuel usage.

3. Insufficient tire tread depthFor sufficient traction, tires should have a minimum of 5mm tread depth. Use a depth gauge to check. Most tires also have built-in tread wear indicators that let you know when tire replacement is necessary.

4. Engine oil that is low or needs to be changedDirty oil will increase engine wear, while low oil levels can lead to overheating. If the oil level drops too low, lubrication will be lost and severe engine damage can result. Regular oil changes will add longevity to the engine.

5. Worn-out windshield wiper bladesRigid, cracked or torn wiper blades can greatly reduce visibility when driving in rain and snow, which could increase your chance of having a crash. Examine and replace your windshield wiper blades once a year or sooner if streaking begins.Your vehicle should be well taken care of. Whenever there is a need of the auto repairs one should contact the best auto repair mechanic in the town.

BMW Blue Tooth Integration-How it works

BMW Bluetooth integration is available for BMW's that did not come with it factory installed. This can add greater functionality toyour BMW vehicle, as well as greater convenience and safety. It is no secret that use of a cell phone while driving can be hazardous to your safety and that of others – and increasingly, this practice is being outlawed throughout the nation. The biggest benefit that BMW Bluetooth integration can provide you is that the danger of using a cell phone while driving is eliminated. You’ll be able to make outgoing calls and receive them without ever having to touch your actual cell phone!

About Bluetooth
Bluetooth (named for a Viking king who brought the entire Scandinavian Peninsula under his rule for a short time during the Middle Ages) is an industry-wide standard, electronic protocol that allows a range of different digital devices to “talk” to each other without the need for cumbersome, tangled cords. These run the gamut from personal computers
to game consoles today, but the earliest use of Bluetooth was to integrate cell phones into automobiles , so drivers could use these devices without having to take their hands off the steering wheel. BMW Bluetooth integration means just that – you’ll be able to use your cell phone while keeping your eyes on the road and maintaining control over your vehicle. No physical connection between your cell phone and your vehicle is necessary.
Features Galore
BMW Bluetooth integration allow you to control your cell phone using nothing more than your steering wheel and radio controls. You’ll be able to go though your digital phone book, dial numbers and adjust the volume easily and safely.
If your cell phone supports such features, you can also display information on your BMW’s dashboard console and even activate it using voice commands. In addition, BMW Bluetooth integration using a quality kit from Bavarian Soundwerks means you’ll never miss an important call just because you’re listening to the radio. Whenever you make an outgoing call or receiving an incoming one, BMW Bluetooth integration allows your cell phone to mute the programming playing on your sound system at that moment.
Easy and Affordable
Bavarian Soundwerks assembles each BMW Bluetooth integration kit from genuine BMW parts. These kits use the original OEM wiring and come with clear, step-by-step instructions. With virtual “plug-and-play” capability, you’ll have your vehicle ready for “hands-free” cell phone operation in minutes. Bavarian Soundwerks BMW Bluetooth integration kits are also compatible with your existing equipment, as long as your vehicle is not equipped with BMW Assist (this must be removed before installing a BMW Bluetooth integration kit). BMW vehicles that were not originally manufactured for the U.S. market must also have a factory installed phone system
or “Option 640” pre-wiring.

Navigate your car in an easy way - GPS

Lots of classy control systems of the modern automobiles need measurements of vehicle's attitude. The commercial GPS systems are method of option for measuring approach in lots of aircraft & farm automobile applications, however are not usually used on the automobiles. Prohibitive aspects of the commercial GPS systems on car include their high cost & significant loss of reliability & signal availability in the urban road settings.The modern automobiles are prepared with various control systems, which improve passenger safety & comfort. These systems take in anti-lock brakes, disparity steering & cruise control. Recently, the automotive

systems also got added to lots of cars for exercise in positioning purposes, permitting driver to view their position on map, and get directions in the real time. Advent of the GPS receivers in the cars has efforts to improve existing systems, and to make new ones like car following & lane keeping control. Some of these systems need measurements of vehicle's attitude.
Few other type of interesting integrations & functions of the automotive GPS control system are that color LCD monitors on a few automotive navigation systems that can as well be used to show television broadcasts and DVD movies. Some systems integrate with phones for the hands-free talking & SMS messaging. Automotive navigation control systems will include personal info management for meetings that is combined with traffic & public transport system.Safety

FeaturesVehicles made by Subaru * Lexus, and Lexus' company, Toyota, exclude many of features when vehicle is in the motion. Manufacturers state this is safety feature to evade driver being distracted. Lots of users have also complained that the passengers are not capable to enter location while in the motion, even if it is very safe to do. Additionally, the drivers have also complained that it is unsafe to pull off highway & stop than it is to enter destination in a system.The automotive system is satellite navigation system that is designed for the exercise in automobiles. It normally makes use of GPS navigation system to obtain position data to place the user on road in unit's map database. By using road database, unit will give directions to the other locations all along roads in its database. The dead reckoning utilizing distance data from the sensors attached to drive train, gyroscope and accelerometer is used for the greater dependability, since GPS signal loss and multipath will occur because of urban canyons and tunnels.Advantages of this kind of GPS unit take in low cost and capability to move them simply to other automobiles. Their portability states they are simply stolen if left in the vehicle however can’t be stolen if driver carries it with him while he gets out. In addition not having compass, accelerometer and inputs from vehicle's speed sensors, states that they can’t navigate as precisely by dead weighing up as a few built- in the devices when there is not any GPS signal. More current portable devices like TomTom 920 have inbuilt accelerometer to attempt and address this.