MPG or Power? New technology will deliver both power and economy.

Car makers are being forced by legislation to cut emissions. We are now judged by other motorists on the percieved greenness of our cars. Enviromentally friendly motoring has become a media obsession. We could argue that the major cause of our pollution is not the humble motor car but rather our consumer led lifestyles, frequent flights and need for ever more power to drive the gadgets and devices we put in our homes.

We shall look briefly at trends in car production over the last few years and see what the future is likely to hold.

Over the last 20 years cars have got heavier, average power output has increased and cars are also larger. Take an average 20 year old hot hatches putting out about 150bhp being able to keep up with modern cars with 200bhp. When you look into this seeming anomoly you realise that all of the additional crash protection adds weight to the car and the average weight of a family car has increased from 1200kg to 1500kg. The final gearing is also longer with the introduction of heavier 5 and 6 speed gearboxes to reduce fuel consumption further. We also demand things like power steering and air conditioning which also add to the weight and reduce the real life power output of the engine.

In a bid to make car engines more efficient we are going to see more turbo charged vehicles, which allow relatively small engines like the 1.4 to put out similar power to a 2.0 engine. Engine management systems are also evolving and will start to control the shape of the fuel spray and we are likely to see systems that control the shape of the intake valve and aperture and many other things which are at the moment not directly controllable by the engine management computer.

Power or economy - makers are getting wise to the fact that we want both.

Luxury car makers and also performance car makers are also looking to cut the weight and size of the cars they produce. Ferrari have disclosed in a recent interview that they plan to cut weight and produce cars with a higher power to weight ratio. The power to weight ratio is an interesting measure of a car for example a 2000kg car with 1000bhp will not be as fast as a 1000kg car which has a more modest 600bhp engine.

All makers are jumping on the power/economy development train with companies like VW which have realeased an engine powered by both a supercharger and a turbocharger which they refer to as the twingcharger. Innovations like this will increase the efficiency of engines and allow makers to increase power, or improve fuel economy. Years ago Rover produced the VVC engine with very clever control of the cam and intake valves which was an economy driven development but many saw the performance possibilities and the engine has been tweaked and tuned to over 200 bhp.

SAAB also released an engine which was able to adjust its volumetric capacity to increase efficiency and BMW are producing M models with driver selectable parameters allowing you to decide how much power/torque/mpg you want from your car. We betting is that most car manufacturers will go for better fuel economy and this is fantastic from a tuners point of view as a simple remap can alter those parameters and produce a higher powered engine for track day use. In car engine management is also going to be a big thing, allowing the driver to choose between economy for the family holiday or performance when he is wanting a bit of fun in the twisty roads.

Recent developments from motorsports are finding their way into production cars. Materials such as Carbon fibre finds its way into the chassis, panels, light weight high friction brakes, low drag tyres, light weight suspension components, and more efficient engine designs. Taking all of this into account we can start to get some ideas on modifications of our cars. Weight reduction should be our aim and we will need to start asking questions like, which are the lightest tyres you do and looking at the weight of components. A big weight saving can come from adding a carbon fibre bonnet which is substantially lighter that most standard metal ones. You will hear more noise from the engine but that adds to the driver experience.

Free Guide: Quick shift gear stick upgrade kits

Being able to change gear as quickly as possible can make a big difference in time critical situations like drag racing and even track day racing. The slowest component in any car is the driver and there is little that can be done to improve that. A quick shift kit will help to give you the competitive edge by enabling faster gear changes and allowing more 'feel' by reducing play.

The gearstick is basically a lever which links to the gearbox. Underneath the gate we have essentially a pivot and the bottom of the lever is what does the work changing gear. Some quick shift shafts have a bend in them to allow extra leverage whilst keeping the gear knob in the same place.

Simple physics applies here a shorter lever above the pivot and longer one below the pivot means that gear changes are quicker. More effort is needed but no gearbox should offer enough resistance to a gear change unless something is seriously wrong with it.

When you have driven a car with a quick shift you will not want to go back to an ordinary long throw gear stick.

Many different quick shift kits are available. When choosing one you should look out for one that is adjustable. Each driver has his own preference and it is also fair to say that each gearbox is different. In some the fastest setting may cause clearance problems.

After you have fitted the quick shift kit ensure that you can engage each gear easily. Sometimes the rubber blocks behind and below the lower shaft will rub and prevent smooth changes. If this is the case adjust the quick shift and or shave away some of the rubber that is causing the fouling.

When you have driven a car with a quick shift you will notice that the amount of travel on the gear lever is substantially reduced. Up to 40% shorter distances in some cases. This effectively make the gear changes faster and gives a more slick feeling. You will really not want to go back to a standard or long throw gear lever afterwards.

Changing to a quick shifter is a relatively straightforward job. Sadly though cars are too different for us to offer general advice here. In some cars, you will need to jack up the front of the car and use axle stands to fit it properly whilst others can be done pretty much entirely from inside the car.

Most quick shift kits come with instructions but you can also consult a workshop manual for you car if you are unsure. This modification is simple and really makes the car feel more sporty, although in real life your performance is pretty much the same.

An Essential explanation of Fuel Octane ratings.

Premium or Super? Should you try one of the newer 100+ octane fuels? What about an octane boosting petrol additive? Does using a petrol with a higher RON improve performance or fuel economy? We will provide some answers and help you to decide what you should put into your tank. The old saying "you are what you eat" can also apply to what your car drinks.

Petrol is a complex mixture of over 300 different chemical compounds, mainly hydrocarbons ( compounds that contain only carbon and hydrogen). Petrol doesn't have a fixed composition but it is graded according to its performance in a test engine, which is where Research Octane Numbers come in. It's sometimes also called the Octane number or Octane rating, but beware, these terms don't always refer to RON. See table below. If you are reading an article from the USA the numbers quoted will refer to the AKI (Anti Knock Index).

RON and Engine Knock.

RON tells us nothing about the economy or power of the fuel.

The Research Octane Number or RON is a measure of how good a petrol is at resisting engine knock. To understand what this means for our engines and our choice of fuel we need to look more closely at engine knock.

Ideally, during the ignition stroke the flame initiated by the spark plug should spread evenly across the cylinder consuming all the fuel and pushing the piston down in one smooth movement. In practice the high pressure and temperature in the cylinder can cause fuel in the far reaches of the cylinder to ignite spontaneously. These ill timed explosions place uneven pressure on the piston resulting in a jerky motion rather than a smooth piston stroke. This is known as engine knock and it causes a distinctive 'pinking' noise, more seriously in the long term it damages the pistons and can lead to engine failure. The higher the compression ratio of the engine the more likely engine knock is to occur.

Traditionally petrol was graded according to its performance in a single cylinder variable compression test engine. Fuels were compared to a test mixture of iso-octane (which is good at resisting engine knock) and heptane ( which is poor at resisting engine knock). 98 RON petrol would cause engine knock at the same compression ratio as a 98% iso-octane 2% heptane mixture.

Modern RON tests use computerised apparatus and the method has been refined so fuels with a RON greater than 100 can be assessed, but the basic principle remains unchanged.

Abbreviation	Definition	Notes
RON	Research Octane Number	UK, Europe, South Africa & Australia
MON	Motor Octane Number	Motor sport applications. Measured under more severe conditions than RON (higher revs etc). Usually 8-10 units lower than the RON.
RdON	Road Octane Number	Average of RON & MON. Usually 4-5 units lower than the RON. USA, Canada
AKI	Ant Knock Index	Average of RON & MON. Usually 4-5 units lower than the RON. USA, Canada
PON	Pump Octane Number	Average of RON & MON. Usually 4-5 units lower than the RON. USA, Canada
(R + M )/2		Average of RON & MON. Usually 4-5 units lower than the RON. USA, Canada
Octane number, Octane rating or octane		Could refer to any of the above, if you can work out which country the article was written in you should be able to work it out.

With a modern engine management systems you are unlikely to hear engine knock even if your fuel isn't fully meeting your engine's octane requirements. Knock sensors in the engine detect the first signs of engine knock and takes measures to prevent it such as adjusting the engine timing. This prevents engine damage but can result in reduced performance and fuel economy. Use our easy mpg calculator to work out your fuel consumption.

So is the answer to just use the highest RON fuel available? Not necessarily. If the RON of your petrol is high enough to completely suppress engine knock then moving to a higher RON fuel will not improve performance or fuel economy. RON is not a measure of how 'powerful' a fuel is. Higher RON fuels are also more expensive. Your car manual should recommend the optimum RON fuel for your car. My Audi manual recommends 98RON, 95 RON can be used with a slight loss of power under heavy driving conditions (eg heavily loaded, high revs), the power loss is due to the engine management system adjusting to avoid engine knock. In an emergency 91 RON can be used but only at 'moderate engine speeds and a light throttle.'

Unless a higher RON petrol comes with hard evidence that it has other properties that will increase power or fuel economy then you're better off sticking to the recommended RON. The only time I would be tempted to splash out on a slightly higher than recommended RON petrol would be for a track day when the car is being driven at full throttle.

The bottom line is that RON is a measure of how effective a petrol is at resisting engine knock. It tells us nothing about power or fuel economy. Over dosing on octane will only dent your pocket.

Free Preview: Remapped sport computer tuning ECU remaps

Back in the good old days - the task of timing the ignition spark was performed by the distributor. The greater the RPM, the more the timing would advance.

This did a reasonable job but for the most effective power you would need to vary the timing to a greater degree that a fixed ratio advance curve. The electronic ignition was borne.

A complete map of variables was entered into the ignition program and preset timing would be read from a table.

Now air temperature, engine speed, engine load and even control over turbo waste gate control means that precise management of the engine ignition timing is possible and you can achieve the maximum power output throughout the rev range.

Electronic ignition allows the manufacturer to fine tune economy at popular road speeds such as 30mph, 56mph and 70mph where most cars spend a large proportion of their time. It is now possible to advance the timing if the throttle is wide open to give greater power or back off the timing when cruising at constant speed.

When a manufacturer creates a timing MAP they build into it a big margin of error

When a manufacturer creates a timing MAP they build into it a big margin of error to cope with: Adverse temperature ranges, minor faults & bad conditions. Manufacturers do not want people breaking down, suffering premature parts failure or a reputation for uneconomical cars.

Each car that leaves the production line is also unique some achieve 10bhp less and others can be 10bhp up on standard specs, depending on how well the components are machined and put together. So rather than put each car through a unique assessment and a bespoke timing map, they adopt a standard one map fits all philosophy.

It is also a fact that manufacturers use the remap to produce different power versions of the same engine and get lower insurance cover ratings and better fuel consumption. You start to see the fantastic scope for improvement, then, when you add into the mix the fact that the average Toruqecars reader will be adding better performing components to the car, you have a really strong case for a remap.

Other things that the manufacturer builds in to their map equation is the possibility of user neglect ie: infrequent servicing with items struggling like dirty plugs, bad leads, clogged air filter, partially blocked injectors etc... The list goes on.

Who should remap? Anyone who has added performance parts to the engine should consider a remap. If your car is a turbo model, there are massive power gains on offer and we strongly recommend a remap.

What are the hidden costs or drawbacks? You will need to be prepared to keep the car serviced more frequently, and, sometimes decreasing the service interval by half. When you fill up you are also restricting yourself to high quality fuel and you must be prepared to replace components that fail due to the extra work they are doing.

When an engine is tuned to produce more power, you are also creating more stress and strain, so things will start to fail such as air flow sensors. Also turbos can wear out, other major components like pistons and bearings will need care and attention and you will find that the clutch lasts a shorter time.

If you do not have a turbo there is very little to be gained by a remap alone - perhaps only a few BHP so we recommendation for non turbo cars is to modify everything else first (cams,pistons, increase compression, engine balance, air intake, exhaust, head work, bigger valves etc...) after these things have been done you can then consider a remap which will help you get the full benefit from them.

On the subject of turbos, (briefly though as we have a comprehensive article on turbos in the forced induction section), a remap will often introduce boost from lower down the rev range and because of this the turbo is running faster and hotter. In this situation you must let the turbo cool down a little before shutting off the engine, otherwise the oil will degrade and you will have an expensive turbo repair on your hands. Fitting a turbo timer will also help with this problem and keeps the engine ticking over.

Of course the amount of power you choose has a bearing on the reliability and cost of running the car. Many people go for an off the shelf remap which are on offer all over the country and typically cost around £200-£500.

This is better than the manufacturers map in that it uses tighter parameters but it is still a one size fits all job. If you are after big power gains and have changed major components like the turbo, waste gate and have done extensive engine work then a custom remap is the best option.

Switchable remaps. Things have moved on and it is now possible to have a few maps stored which you can select from. It is typical to have a valet mode to stop the boy racers at the garage thrashing your pride and joy on the "test run" to bed in the new wiper blades they have fitted. Then there is often an economy option to give very frugal fuel consumption, particularly useful when cruising on long journeys.

Then you have the 'sport' or 'power' modes which give lots of power and often require high octane fuel. We strongly recommend that you get a switchable remap - it may cost a little more at the outset but you will avoid many of the pitfalls of running a high power remap all of the time by doing this and get the best of both worlds.

Please do not confuse a remap with the little boxes you can buy for £50 which generally contain little more than a £3 resistor and often do little more than fool the car into thinking the air is cooler than it is. If it was really this easy to get more power from a car then the manufacturers would have already done that themselves.

Some cars are not easy to remap, I remember that the Rover MEMS was a case in point. The Manufacturer holds the key to the ECU and locks their Map into their firmware. Some ECU's are just plain and simply not reprogrammable so what can you do? Is there an option? Well thankfully there is and they are called piggy back ECU's.

Piggy back ecus:

They connect between your existing ECU and the engine sensor inputs and outputs. All work slightly differently and apply all or some of the following combinations.

Some will adjust the sensor readings such as air temp engine speed crank position and effectively lie to the standard ECU forcing a more aggressive timing. Some will actually perform their own calculations and take over control of some aspects of engine management like turbo waste gate control and ignition timing. Some will take the standard ECU output and modify the signals sent to change timing and learn to guess the next output a split second before it is needed using the base ECU map and just enhancing it a little.

Free Guide on Car Chip Tuning

The days of fiddling around in the engine bay with a spanner to make the car go faster are numbered.

Modern engine computers (ECU's) take over many of the controls of all aspects of engine management from timing to fuelling and more.

This actually means you get better power, a cleaner burn and more reliable engine but it does not mean the end of tuning.

See our article on remapping the ecu for more information about how the engine management maps work.Chip tuning is a term used very loosly to describe any process of remapping the cars engine

In this article we shall focus on the specific act of "Chip tuning" and not dwell too much on remaps.

The term probably stems from the early days were chips could not easily be reflashed and updated.

The only option in these cases was to replace the chip. Often these would need to be soldered and could be quite fiddly and, due to the delicate nature of chips, prone to failure.

EPROMS which were erasable and programmable chips could be removed reflashed and reinserted into the car.

Chip replacements were the only way to change a cars mapping but now with standardized diagnostic ports it is much easier.

In recent times we have seen cars equipped with on board diagnostic ports that allow a fresh map to be uploaded.

Is chip tuning something you can easily do yourself? Not really, you need to have detailed knowledge of the engine and ideally a full set of diagnostic equipment on a rolling road to allow you to make "live" adjustments to the mapping. There is certainly a lot more to it than just changing a few numbers and getting a big power gain.

With DIY chip tuning you also run the risk of a bad flash where the computer cannot be recovered and without a restoration image you will need to visit the main dealer or worse still buy a new computer.

The best form of chip tuning is where a custom map can be inserted that takes into account your cars strengths and weaknesses and any other modifications that you have had done. There are still a few companies out there offering replacement chips set to a more sporty setting.

This is not to be confused with piggy back chips or plug in boxes. These are only useful in cases where a reflash or replacement chip is not available and it would still be better to buy a whole aftermarket ECU and use this.

We are often asked if chip tuning works on all engines. Generally speaking any car will see a benefit but the larger gains are from turbocharged applications. In a NASP (Naturally Aspirated) engine power gains are around 10-20%, but in a turbo engine the power gains are typically around 40% for a petrol and 30% for a turbo diesel.

Even a car getting a relatively low power gain from a remap will actually be more lively to drive. The peak power gain figure is only a very small part of the equation. The engines response under acceleration and its torque curve are the primary reasons for getting into chip tuning.

The downsides of chip tuning are the need for more regular car maintenance and servicing. You are effectively reducing the safe margin of error the makers build in. This compensates for low quality fuel, or the wear and tear associated with longer service intervals.

Car Light Tips: Fog lights - Improve Visibility

So now it is up to you to choose whether you should install fog lights or not. In some parts of the world this is an easy decision to make because poor visibility conditions occur often and it is very useful to have fog lights. However if you live in a part of the world where this is not the case then making the decision is not so easy.

You can start by recalling how often in the past you have been seriously troubled by visibility issues when driving your car. If you have had a bad experience then it makes sense to go for fog lights. But what if you have never been affected by poor visibility? Well maybe you have just been lucky and if others in your area have been affected you should still go for fog lights. Because when you need fog lights they are very useful and they are well worth the money.

Fog lights do not cost a lot and if you are on the road a lot it is better to give yourself the performance edge that fog lights provide. They also look nice and give your car an upmarket high performance look.

Freev Guides on Type of Audio System

Getting the right sound system for your car is an important step if you are going to be spending a lot of time in your car and want to listen to music while there. Many of us put a lot of importance on sound quality when it comes to listening to music, and as can be seen by the increasing technical quality in home entertainment systems, people will pay a premium for the best systems. The deciding factor can be any one of a number of things. As important as any other factor is the kind of music you like listening to. There are many and various genres of music which are all highly popular, and a system that suits one may be entirely inappropriate for another.

Equally, the sound system needs to be one that suits your vehicle. It is not advisable to take a tip from a friend who has the same taste in music that you do, should their vehicle happen to be set up differently. Acoustics are very important, and spending a lot of money on a system is no guarantee of getting the right one – if the set up of the system is inefficient for the music to which you want to listen or the specifications of your car, then you are throwing money down the drain.

The system that is provided with your car is generally a “one size fits all” system that is not set up one way or the other – something that will be equally beneficial to all people, but not especially useful for you or another person with greatly differing tastes. These systems will be perfectly adequate for listening to the radio – particularly to news and chat shows as they allow the spoken word to be heard clearly – but if you are listening to music which is bass-heavy, or conversely to classical music which is dependent on subtlety and high notes, they will never give you excellent quality. It is in these latter cases that you will be best served by a bespoke sound system.

The inefficiency of a standard in-car sound system for specific can be easily demonstrated. If you are someone who enjoys bass-heavy music, playing one of your CDs on an in-car sound system and turning the volume up as loud as it can go will result in a distorted, tinny sound that will ruin the overall quality of the track. For such preferences, to adequately serve your needs you will require a set-up that favors this kind of music. For this you will be depending on a set of speakers that carry bass frequencies well – ideally with two large woofers and some sub-woofers, depending on the set-up of your car.

The sound delivery should be driven by an amplifier stronger than the one provided with the car – which usually only delivers a power output of comparatively low wattage. You should be looking for a wattage level of around 45 watts. Equally, if you listen to classical music, you can generally accept lower wattage, but will benefit from a sound system that favors tweeters rather than woofers, as these give a clearer, cleaner sound at high frequencies.

Free Preview: Top 5 ultimate fantasy cars

2009 Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 (MSRP $104,920)

Chevrolet Corvette ZR1

The Chevrolet Corvette ZR1 is the most coveted American supercar in production today. It'll not only outgun its closest competition — the fire breathing Dodge Viper SRT-10 — in acceleration, braking and handling, but it'll drive with the civility of a car you'd let mom tool around in.

The ZR1 features a hand-built 6.2-liter supercharged V-8, which peers through a transparent polycarbonate window in its ultra-light carbon-fiber hood. The V-8, thanks largely to its supercharger, makes excellent power and torque. Just how much? Try 638 bhp and 604 lb.-ft. of torque!

If you can't quite drive a stick yet, you're out of luck; the ZR1 is available only with a manual transmission, a race-hardened 6-speed manual that is the best ever offered in a Corvette.

The ZR1 is the only Corvette currently equipped with GM's Magnetic Ride Control. This system continuously adjusts the suspension for the given road conditions, and it lets the driver switch the shock absorbers between Sport or Tour modes on the fly, with the simple twist of a knob in the cockpit.

Everything that makes the ZR1 go fast comes standard. However, if you opt for the 3ZR package ($10,000) you'll get touch-screen navigation, a Bose audio system and a leather interior.

Five reasons to buy:

1. It's an affordable supercar

2. Easy to drive fast (and slow)

3. Substantial luggage space

4. Aggressive yet tasteful styling

5. American made

2009 Aston Martin DBS (MSRP $262,000)

Aston Martin DBS

If beauty and elegance are of utmost importance but you still like going fast, the Aston Martin DBS is your dream come true. Aston Martin is long known for building some of the most attractive designs in automotive history, and the DBS is one whose looks will never fade.

This lavish 2-seater is quite spacious inside, with ample room for the driver and passenger, plus some space behind the seats for supplemental luggage room. Built entirely out of carbon-fiber and aluminum, the DBS weighs a lot less than it looks — 3480 lb. to be exact.

The 6.0-liter V-12 engine that powers the DBS is hand built like the rest of the car, and every DBS features a plaque that bears the name of the individual responsible for its final inspection. With either the 6-speed manual or 6-speed paddle-shifted Touchtronic automatic transmission, the DBS accelerates at virtually identical rates. Which is to say, super fast!

The standard suspension is equipped with Aston's Active Damping System that automatically adjusts according to the inputs it receives from the road and driver. A track setting (the stiffest setting) can also be summoned with the touch of a button.

Lastly, Aston Martin has partnered with fine-watch maker, Jaeger-LeCoultre to offer a watch that doubles as the DBS's transponder, locking and unlocking the doors by simply touching the watch's sapphire crystal face.

Five reasons to buy:

1. Pinnacle of automotive beauty

2. Surprisingly quick and athletic

3. Extensive use of exotic materials

4. Interior fit for a king (or queen)

5. Manual and automatic transmissions available

2008 Audi R8 (MSRP $114,200)

Audi R8

Audi's first supercar, the R8, couldn't have been more properly executed. What originally appeared to be a pipe dream concept car wowed the entire world when it actually pushed through to production. What's even more surprising is how the R8 has come to define the term "everyday supercar."

The mid-mounted 4.2-liter V-8 shielded under a transparent hatch provides 420-bhp and 317 lb.-ft. of torque channeled through a sporty Quattro all-wheel drive system. The transmission choices are a classic steel-gated 6-speed manual or a single-clutch paddle-shifted sequential manual dubbed "R tronic" by Audi. Though 420 bhp may not seem like much in the company of these other cars, the R8 readily utilizes every bit of its power with greater ease, resulting in more speed when the road gets twisty.

Audi's own active suspension damping utilizes the same magnetic ride technology as the ZR1 and it too also features both a sport and comfort setting.

The R8's greenhouse is quite expansive for a coupe, which adds to its comforting allure. You won't feel cramped even if you're over 6-foot tall, and ingress/egress can be accomplished without embarrassment. Though the interior already looks great in standard Audi trim, you can order Alcantara and carbon-fiber trim to elevate the feel of what is genuinely a well-engineered supercar.

Five reasons to buy:

1. An exotic without pretension

2. Excellent all-wheel-drive system

3. Superhero styling

4. Relatively affordable

5. Sporty, everyday comfort

2009 Lamborghini Murciélago LP640 Roadster (MSRP $382,400)

Lamborghini Murciélago LP640 Roadster

Think exotic car, and the likely image that'll pop into your head will be that of the Lamborghini Murciélago LP640 Roadster. Nothing about this car is subtle from its lane-wide size, bevel-edged body styling, or angry V-12 bark; and that's what makes this open-top car so spectacular.

Leave all thoughts of practically behind if what you desire is the LP640. Named after its 640 metric horsepower (632 bhp SAE), the LP640 is a road-going jet fighter that gulps copious amounts of fuel (EPA 8 mpg city/13 mpg hwy) but can accelerate to 100 mph in only 7.5 seconds. And when it comes time to slow down, this Lamborghini stops quicker than cars half its size and weight — by that we mean the Lotus Elise or Exige.

Like the Audi R8, the LP640 Roadster can be outfitted with a gated 6-speed manual or a sequential 6-speed transmission that comes with paddle shifters mounted on the steering column. A mid-mounted engine and all- wheel drive are characteristics shared with the R8, which benefit them both in any weather condition.

Aside from its striking head-turning appearance on the road, the LP640 attracts even more onlookers when its unique scissor-style doors open vertically. The interior that's revealed is the wonderfully understated, with fixed-bucket seats that look to be permanently reclined, although the overall design looks more German than Italian.

Five reasons to buy:

1. Ferocious road presence

2. As fast as it looks

3. Comfortable, understated interior

4. Racecar-handling dynamics

5. That open top

2009 Mercedes-Benz SL65 AMG Black Series (MSRP est $300,000)

Mercedes-Benz SL65 AMG Black Series

With more power on tap than the half-million-dollar Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren (now discontinued), the SL65 AMG Black Series is the most radical Mercedes on the road today.

You could chalk it up to the bi-turbo V-12 that resides under the hood, producing 661 bhp and a staggering 738 lb.-ft. of torque. But what's most tantalizing about the Black Series is its racecar-inspired bodywork, with fenders that push the limits of a car's legal width. Even compared with the already ultra- wide body of the Lamborghini Murciélago LP 640, the Black Series is an additional 1.2 inches wider. And it's not all for show as the extra fender width allows for those wide wheels to stay within the confines of the bodywork.

Although it has the performance of a racecar, the Black Series is relatively docile to drive, given you're prudent with the throttle. It comes equipped with a 5-speed automatic transmission that's a good compromise between smooth shifting and sporty response. This makes the car better suited for a comfortably brisk road drive than an all-out track day.

Only 350 examples of this future collector's item will be built, and only 175 will make it here to the U.S. market. Get yours now, if you can!

Five reasons to buy:

1. Ultimate exclusivity

2. DTM wide-body racecar style

3. Obscene power and torque

4. Stable handling

5. Ultra plush interior

So whether you end up sitting on a winning lottery ticket or have worked tirelessly for a long time to afford such a car, make sure your fantasy ride is a sound investment. All five of the cars wev'e featured here are from reputable marques, and they're bound to stay stylish and valuable for generations to come. They might also be the last of their breed, as we appear headed toward a new era of the automobile.

Free Previews: Top 5 convertibles to drive this summer

2010 Mini Cooper S Convertible (MSRP $27,450)

Mini Cooper S Convertible

Some cars are just loaded with personality. Case in point: the new Mini Cooper S Convertible, which puts a grin on the face of anybody who's behind its wheel. As an S model it's fitted with a turbocharged 172-bhp engine, which makes this Mini a delight to drive. This affordable car takes corners like a slot car, with excellent grip. BMW, which builds the Mini, clearly knows a thing or two about suspension tuning.

The company has also done a great job with the well-lined fabric top. As before, its forward section can slide backward for a sunroof-like experience. But the Mini Convertible is best appreciated with its top fully down and the scenery whizzing by. Yes, the back seats are cramped (and are for kids at best), but that's simply the price one must pay for having such a small and nimble car, which gets an impressive 26 mpg/34 mpg in the EPA city and highway cycles.

Inside, the Mini is fitted with supportive sport seats that are color-coordinated with the exterior paint, and those chrome hoops in back pop up for protection if the car senses a rollover is imminent. No worries, though; in a car as low and wide as the Mini — which also has standard stability control — that shouldn't be a concern. Rather, concern yourself more with this — maximizing your top-down time, which is easy to track with the Mini's clever new Openometer gauge!

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. Affordable

2. Loaded with personality

3. Excellent dynamics

4. Easy on fuel

5. Rigid chassis

2010 Ford Shelby GT500 Convertible (MSRP $51,225)

Ford Shelby GT500 Convertible

Is there anything more appealingly American than a Mustang? We think not. And this is not just a run-of- the-mill Mustang; it's a GT500 convertible, which means it has been touched by the high-performance wand of none other than Carroll Shelby, who has been tweaking Mustangs to great effect since the 1960s.

What makes the GT500 special? Its engine. It's a big supercharged V-8 with more than 500 bhp. Wussies need not apply...this GT500 gets up and goes, hitting the quarter mile in only 12.9 seconds.

As you'd expect, the suspension and brakes have been upgraded to handle all that power, and the live rear axle is a durable design that helps Ford keep costs in check. And speaking of prices, the GT500, at $51,225, is not cheap by Mustang standards, but it still represents lots of bang for the buck.

For that money, you get a power soft top with a heated glass window, side airbags, sport bucket seats and SYNC, the voice-command system that allows drivers to keep their hands where they belong — on the reins (make that the steering wheel) of this high-powered steed, which has EPA fuel economy ratings of 14 mpg city, 22 mpg highway.

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. Power, power, power

2. Classic style

3. Surprisingly refined

4. Dramatically improved interior

5. Slick SYNC system

2010 Infiniti G37 Convertible (MSRP $45,000)

Infiniti G37 Convertible

As a sports coupe, the Infiniti G37 shines particularly bright, as stylish as it is fun to drive and blessed with an excellent platform related to that of the sporty Nissan 370Z. As a brand-new convertible, the G37 offers the best of two worlds: It's a stylish coupe with a security-enhancing hardtop whenever the top is up, and it's a sensuous head-turning roadster whenever that top is down.

At the touch of a button, the articulated 2-piece top goes down in a well-choreographed folding operation that takes 28 seconds...your friends will be impressed. Unfortunately, when the top is stowed in the trunk, there's not much room for anything else back there, barring perhaps a loaf of bread.

Top down on the highway, wind noise in the leather-appointed cabin is not a problem, and Bose speakers inset in each headrest ensure that you can hear your favorite tunes as the miles fly by. The active cruise control is also a marvel, automatically keeping the G37 at a set distance from the traffic ahead.

The 325-bhp 3.7-liter engine is a gem, mated to either a 6-speed manual transmission or a 7-speed automatic with paddle shifters and rev-match downshifting. The latter gearbox will undoubtedly be the more popular choice, as it better fits the luxurious character of this opulent new Infiniti, which gets 16/24 mpg in the EPA mileage tests.

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. Seductive style

2. Hardtop security

3. Excellent dynamics

4. Luxurious interior

5. Manual transmission

2009 Porsche Boxster S (MSRP $56,700)

Porsche Boxster S

Want in on a little-known secret? One of the Boxster's best traits is its ability to carry cargo. Yes, with front and rear trunks, this mid-engine Porsche roadster is a veritable pack mule, able to carry far more than most would expect.

And this in no way detracts from the Boxster's primary role of being perhaps the best all-around roadster on the market, a 2-seat German that blends superb real-world comfort with an ability to carve canyons with the best of them. And the best Boxster is clearly the S model, whose 3.4-liter flat-6 sends 310 bhp to the rear wheels via a manual gearbox or the new ($3420) optional PDK double-clutch transmission, which shifts faster (and more smoothly, both up and down) than any human can.

On twisty roads, the Boxster S comes alive, exhibiting a confidence-inspiring composure that will cause the driver to seek those roads less traveled.

Indeed, it is that kind of car, and the Boxster interior is more cockpit than cabin, with firm seats that are remarkably comfortable over the long haul. New for 2009 is an excellent $3110 navigation system, with a much larger screen than before and a reduced number of buttons.

And the more we think about it, the more we realize that the Porsche Boxster S pushes all our right buttons, all while getting an impressive 29 mpg on the highway.

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. Superb handling

2. PDK gearbox

3. Lots of cargo room

4. Classic styling

5. Mid-engine layout

2010 Bentley Continental GTC Speed (MSRP $231,400)

Bentley Continental GTC Speed

When a standard Bentley Continental convertible just won't do, there's always the high-horsepower version known as the Speed. Yes, this pricey ride is by far the sweetest looker in the our mix, and it's an aptly named car with 600 horsepower and a top speed of 200 mph. Top down, the extra drag means a reduced peak speed of "only" 195. Nevertheless, we strongly suggest holding on to your toupee.

The Speed's majestic power emanates from its twin-turbo Volkswagen-based W-12 engine, whose fantastic sounds are best appreciated when the beautifully lined power top is down. Although the Speed is thirsty, getting only 10 mpg in the EPA city cycle, its powertrain is silky smooth, with a 6-speed paddle-shift gearbox helping keep the engine in the sweet spot of its wide powerband.

At 5580 lb., this Bentley is large but remarkably agile, with a sumptuous interior that blends classic English touches (hand-stitched leather and pull-switch vents) with thoroughly modern amenities such as its navigation system and optional 1000-watt Naim stereo. While some folks can do without that $6900 sound system, those who plan to drive their Speed hard might consider the huge carbon-ceramic brakes, a pricey $16,500 option.

But if your goal is to own one of the finest convertibles on the market today — one that beautifully blends open-air luxury with omnipotent acceleration — why scrimp?

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. Exudes class

2. Bentley heritage

3. Superb style

4. Exclusivity

5. It's a true 200-mph car

Rational folks who view cars merely as appliances to get from point A to point B just don't understand convertibles. Probably never will. But if you're a person who enjoys the drive as much as (or possibly even more than) the destination, well, any one of these exciting new convertibles — from the Mini and Mustang all the way up to the G37, Boxster and Bentley — would make an ideal companion for that summer road trip, making it that much more memorable. That's the magic of a convertible...

5 inexpensive but fun cars you may consider in this recession

2009 Honda Fit Sport (MSRP $16,260)

2009 Honda Fit Sport

In the minds of many, a 5-door (once upon a time known as “a wagon”) can be efficient and/or practical…but not fun. But Honda’s roomy little Fit runabout turns this notion on its ear. And thanks to a recent restyling, the Fit looks even more sporting with its more aggressive and pointy proboscis.

Though its 4-cylinder engine makes only 117 horsepower, the Fit has a peppy, rev-happy nature, crisp steering and a smooth-shifting 5-speed manual transmission. Even the suspension is tuned to have a sporty feel. The Sport model has some welcome additional features, including a body kit (with a roofline spoiler), sharp-looking 16-in. alloy wheels and a USB audio interface. And on the safety front, there are front and side airbags, along with active front head restraints that help minimize whiplash for the driver and front passenger in the event of a rear-end collision.

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. Even more fun than it looks

2. Space efficiency

3. Thrifty fuel economy

4. Nice-looking 5-door

5. Clean interior

2009 Subaru Impreza 2.5i (MSRP $17,995)

2009 Subaru Impreza 2.5i

With a starting price under $18,000, the Subaru Impreza 2.5i sport sedan (also available as a 5-door for only $500 more) is a very good deal on the surface. But delve a little deeper into its window sticker and factor in the standard all-wheel-drive and unique flat-4-cylinder engine and this Subie becomes an exceptional deal.

Subaru has been equipping its cars with full-time all-wheel-drive for years, and it is a strategy that has worked well for this Japanese manufacturer ─ not only has this helped differentiate the company from the likes of Toyota/Nissan/Honda but it has helped Subaru earn a near cult-like following in the snow country from Colorado to the Northeast.

As for the aforementioned “flat” engine, this means that the cylinders/pistons are horizontal, a design favored by Porsche for decades.

When the weather gets bad, the all-wheel-drive Subaru Impreza starts to shine, capable of getting places that other cars can’t, and doing it at a bargain price.

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. All-wheel-drive versatility

2. All-wheel-drive fun

3. Low base price

4. Peppy engine

5. Reputation for reliability

2009 Chevrolet Cobalt SS (MSRP $24,095)

2009 Chevrolet Cobalt SS

Don’t let the Chevrolet Cobalt SS’s buttoned-down, mild-mannered looks (in either 2- or 4-door guise) fool you ─ this exceptionally quick sports coupe is one of the best values on the market today.

In our test of an SS sedan, it hit 60 mph as quickly as a $130,000 Maserati Quattroporte SportFerrari F430. Not bad for around $24,000, eh? GT sedan. And the Cobalt slithered through the slalom cones at 70 mph, nearly the same speed as a quarter-million-dollar

The Cobalt SS’s engine – a turbocharged 4-cylinder that produces 260 horsepower ─ has plenty of power; what’s more, it gets an EPA-rated 30 mpg highway. The car’s handling is also superb ─ the harder you drive it, the better it seems to grip to the road. And unlike many cars with sport-tuned suspensions, the Cobalt SS’s ride quality is firm but not teeth-rattling. And using the Cobalt SS’s 5-speed manual gearbox is a treat, thanks to its tight, short throws.

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. Best bang-for-the-buck in America

2. High-end sports car performance

3. 2- or 4-door availability

4. Surprisingly good 30 mpg highway

5. Excellent agility

2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara (MSRP $18,499)

2009 Suzuki Grand Vitara

Those with an active lifestyle deserve some inexpensive fun, too, and the Suzuki Grand Vitara
meets that need perfectly.

At first glance the Grand Vitara ─ thanks to its clean, rugged exterior and sensibly styled, high-quality interior ─ looks like an SUV priced well beyond its sub-$20,000 price. And with seating for five, along with a good deal of stowage space in the rear cargo area, there’s plenty of room for your adventurous brood and their outdoor gear.

Versatility is the name of the game underhood, where buyers have a choice of either the base 166-bhp 4-cylinder engine or an optional 230-bhp V-6. With either choice, the Grand Vitara can tow up to 3000 lb. ─ perfect for a trailer full of dirtbikes, personal watercraft, or any number of other fun weekend accessories. Want to go off-road? Either engine can be equipped with 4-wheel drive featuring low-range gearing that works great on really tough roads.

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. Handsome looks

2. Quality inside and out

3. Off-road capability

4. All-wheel-drive traction

5. Good value

2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring (MSRP $18,495)

2009 Hyundai Elantra Touring

Like the Honda Fit Sport, Hyundai’s Elantra Touring is a 5-door machine that puts the “fun” back in functionality.

In addition to clean, European-inspired styling and a pleasantly stout 136 horsepower 2.0-liter 4-cylinder engine, this Hyundai has some unexpected performance sizzle, thanks to the addition of a B&M Racing short-throw shifter and a sport-tuned 4-wheel independent suspension. Even the most jaded of commuter drivers will feel a spark of invigoration in the Touring, especially when downshifting a gear or two to negotiate a corner at speed.

If the Elantra Touring’s fun-loving nature can’t put a smile on your face, then maybe its EPA mileage rating of 31 mpg highway can. There’s also a long list of safety features that come standard on this hip little 5-door, including traction control, electronic stability control and active front head restraints. Still need more cheering up? Opt for one of the fun, vibrant paint schemes such as Vivid Blue or Chilipepper Red.

Five Reasons to Buy:

1. One hip wagon

2. Sporty accessories

3. Good interior quality

4. 31 mpg highway

5. Excellent Hyundai warranty

Without a doubt, this group of Inexpensive Fun rides proves that versatility and fun are not mutually exclusive. Need to transport yourself, friends and/or stuff on a regular basis? Then the Hyundai Elantra Touring, Honda Fit or Suzuki Grand Vitara are a good choice. Opt for the Suzuki if you’re an outdoor adventurer. Looking for something that leans a little more toward the fun side of the spectrum? The Subaru Impreza is that car. And if performance is what drives you, the Chevy Cobalt SS is the only way to fly.

Free Interior Headliner Repair Tips

As a car ages in years, it starts needing a little more attention and care. Even if you take care of your car very well, chances are that as old age settles in it will need a few repairs. Some of these repairs are kind of unavoidable and maybe even unpreventable. However, getting the repaired is usually simple. And even if you car has a few years behind it, keeping it looking good will still help you sell the car if you happen to need or want to at some point down the road. One of these repairs is headliner repair.

The headliner is the fabric covering of the interior of an automobile’s roof. It is normally made of lightweight fabric and may have an inner framework of stiff wire or a cardboard backing for stiffness. It is usually made of a light colored material as well. Since the headliner is made out of such lightweight material it usually begins to wear down quicker than other parts of your vehicles interior. What usually ends up happening is that it started to sag in small areas, and then eventually it is sagging the entire way only holding on at the edges. It not only looks bad, but is annoying as it sits on your head as you drive.

You have a few options available to you as you endeavor to fix this headliner problem. You can replace the headliner or you can repair it, or you may even try to fix it yourself.

First of all, it is not advised that you try fixing your headliner yourself with crazy ideas you think will work. Whether it be an adhesive, pins, or anything else you will be wasting your time and money. Usually they will fix it for a day or maybe a few days, but you end up in the same spot you were before and maybe worse depending on how you tried to fix it yourself. You should either get it repaired professionally or get it replaced.

If you choose to replace the headliner you will pay more than having it repaired. You may also have to wait for them to order materials or supplies to complete the job. You may also be out of a vehicle while they work on your car. However, this is an option you can choose to get your car’s interior looking great.

Free Car Battery Cleaning Guides

First, scrape off any white or greenish corrosion deposits with the stiff-bristled brush or small metal or plastic scraper. Next, use the solution of baking soda mixed with water, approximately one heaping tablespoon to each pint of water. Carefully apply it to the outside of the battery and its cable connections with the turkey baster or small funnel. Then, you can use your brush to work the baking soda solution into the heavily corroded areas. If you find that the cable clamps or terminals are badly corroded at the battery, you can disconnect them for easier cleaning. For this, you may need to use pliers, assorted wrenches and a small battery cable puller to disconnect them. You should disconnect the negative first, followed by the positive.

Then, use your battery cable scrapers or brush to remove the corrosion from the terminals, battery posts and hold down clamps and brackets. Flush these parts with your baking soda solution to rid them of any trace of corrosion. After this, wash the outside of the battery, the cable ends and the hold down parts with a liquid cleaner in a spray bottle. After that, use a sponge or rag to get off any remaining dirt or grease. After everything is clean, dry off the battery and all its parts with a dry rag or cloth.

The final step is just reinstalling any part that was removed and tightening everything so it is secure. Reconnect the battery, positive cable first. You’re done! You’re battery is now safe and clean.

Car Dealer Tricks to Watch For

We know. Not all car dealers are unscrupulous, and not all are going to take you to the cleaners. Among all the “Honest Bobs” out there walking the lots, many really are trustworthy. But there is a simple reason so many people dread buying a new car: the potential for rip-off is astronomical, and common practices over the years have often justified consumers’ fears. If you catch a whiff of any of the scams below, be on alert.

Juggling the Four-Square

This isn’t really a trick, but awareness here is important for a buyer. When you sit down to negotiate, the salesman will pull out a “four-square” worksheet on which to work out the terms of the deal. In the four quadrants of the sheet the salesman will record purchase price, down payment, monthly payments, and trade-in value. He will fill in the sheet as you talk, working the deal like a shell game—if he thinks you are preoccupied with getting a fair deal on your trade in, he might give you a good price for that and then nudge your new-car purchase price north. Take it slow, focus on one item at a time, and be sure you are comfortable with each individual aspect of your purchase.

Profiting from Rebates

Rebates bring a lot of customers into a showroom, but the discounts can hide several tricks dealers employ to suck a few bucks from a buyer. First, don’t let a salesman tell you that you are getting a good deal because of a rebate; rebates come from the manufacturer and usually apply regardless of the price you negotiate with the individual dealer. Negotiate as if there are no rebates. Second, make sure the rebates are deducted from the purchase price. If you allow the dealer to mail you a check after the sale, you end up paying taxes and interest on the rebate. And never let an incentive like a low APR or a rebate rush you into a purchase you aren’t ready to make. If there’s an incentive on a car today, odds are there will be incentives on it again. Salesmen will often tell you there are strings attached to incentives, such as that you have to buy a certain trim, engine, or option package in order to qualify. This is not always true. Do your homework.

Inflating Payments

Talking monthly payments at the car dealership can be as dangerous as saying “bomb” at the airport. A salesman asks how much you are willing to pay each month, and you throw out a number—say, $450 a month. He asks how much more you could afford—just getting a feel for you. You tack on another 50 bucks. In your mind, you were just theorizing, but to the salesman, you just committed to a $500 minimum monthly payment. Instead, when a salesman asks how much you can pay each month, tell him you will not discuss monthly payments and only want to talk purchase price; you’ll decide on monthly payments after you’ve settled on a fair price.

Fees and Extras

Delivery charges, titling fees, and a few other closing costs are inevitable extras associated with buying a new car. But aside from a few essential add-ons, most fees or extra-cost items are either inflated or altogether unnecessary. Negotiate fees down, or outright refuse to pay them. And deny any extras offered by the finance and insurance manager. Basically, if it’s anything he offers you after you’ve negotiated your sales price, you don’t need it and you shouldn’t pay for it. Particularly egregious are paint protection and fabric guard, essentially wax and Scotch Guard dealerships often charge hundreds of dollars for.

Interest-Rate Bumping

You should always shop for your own financing before you head to the dealer. Maybe you’ll get a better rate; maybe you’ll just get a better idea of what rate you qualify for so you can police the finance manager. It is not uncommon for the dealer to secure financing for you at one APR but offer you a rate one percentage point higher—and then pocket the difference.

Altering the Bill of Sale

Never sign a bill of sale with blanks or terms that are “subject to bank approval” or have similar wording. Some dealerships will let a customer sign such a document and release the new car to its happy owner, only to call the buyer back a few days later to say that the loan fell through and they need to come back in to sign some new paperwork, which just happens to cost the buyer more than the negotiated price. Never drive your car off a lot until all the paperwork is filled out completely.

The following four are the most underhanded and childish dealer tricks. Fortunately, they don’t happen very often anymore. But if a dealer pulls any of these stunts on you, they don’t deserve your business. Walk away.

Ransoming Your Check

The sales manager gets cast as the villain in a good cop/bad cop routine some salesmen play with buyers. You’ll negotiate a price, and the salesman will leave to get approval from his sales manager, painting the salesman as your ally and the manager as a common enemy. Be wary if the salesman asks for a check to prove to the manager you are serious. Sometimes, your offer will be rejected, but your check won’t be returned right away—it’s been “misplaced” or some similar nonsense. Now they’ve got your money, and you feel pressured to concede to their terms. Remember that you can always walk away and cancel the check later.

Eavesdropping

While it’s a good idea to bring a friend or family member shopping with you—someone else to watch the deal, question the terms, and help keep your emotions in check—this opens additional avenues for nefarious dealers to use the wingman against the buyer. When the salesman leaves the cube, people drop their guard and feel comfortable discussing the aspects of the deal they wouldn’t mention in front of the salesman. With just a couple subtle pokes at their phones, salespeople can leave the intercom open with the sales manager’s office, where they will go not to seek approval on your terms, but to eavesdrop on your conversation, harvesting information to use against the customer. There are even stories of salespeople hiding baby monitors in their offices. When the salesman leaves to talk to the sales manager, that’s your cue to leave and get a cup of coffee.

Lying About Your Credit Score

In addition to shopping around for financing, you should take a look at your credit report and strongly consider spending the few bucks to learn your credit score before you go to a dealership. Many of the best offers to be had on new cars are contingent on the buyer having qualifying credit, and dealers occasionally have been known to lie to customers about their credit scores and the financing for which they qualify.

Misplacing Trade-In Keys

If you are thinking of trading in your old car when you buy a new one, someone may borrow your keys to evaluate your ride. If negotiations stall and you try to leave, you might find that they’ve been “misplaced” in order to prevent you from leaving and entice you to make a deal you aren’t comfortable with. If you bring two sets of keys with you, this won’t be a problem.

Not every dealership is guilty of these tricks. Which is all the more reason to stick with a good one when you find it.

Best Used Cars 2009

2009 Honda Civic

Honda Civic

There's a reason the Civic shows up on many auto experts "Best" lists: When it comes to outstanding quality, safety and dependability, there are few better cars. Cars.com notes the Civic is one the most popular used cars sold from July to September of 2008, while Consumer Reports chose it as the best used car in the small car class because its "reliable, economical and fun to drive." CarsComplaints.com finds that some Civic owners have had transmission problems with the 2001 and 2002 models, but the current generation Civic, first sold in 2006, has a strong reliability record and few federal government defect notices.

Subaru Impreza

If you're looking for a distinctive design or thrills on the road, the Impreza probably isn't your first choice. But critics say the car is a safe choice, literally and figuratively. Writers praise the Impreza's secure dynamics with standard all-wheel drive, and highlight the safety features and strong safety scores from the federal government and insurance industry. J.D. Power and Associates lists the 2006 Subie Impreza as a top pick in its 2009 Vehicle Dependability Survey. Although Cars.com reports the 2009 Impreza has one of the best resale values (which means finding one that's used and cheap could be a challenge), Edmunds suggests an Impreza made between 1998 and 2001 as one of the best used cars for those on a tighter budget. "We found high-mileage (150,000-plus) 2.5RS models starting at around $4,500 on Auto Trader," they report. There's an even better deal in U.S. News' used car listings: a 1999 Impreza with 98,746 miles for only $3,995.

Toyota Prius

With every model year the Prius seems to make advancements in fuel efficiency. But even an older model Toyota Prius offers outstanding gas mileage. In 2001, the first year the car was available in the United States, the EPA gave it a combined rating of 41 mpg. Cars.com notes the 2009 Prius has one of the strongest resale values, and J.D. Power and Associates lists the 2006 model as the most dependable car in the compact category in its 2009 Vehicle Dependability Survey.

Ford Mustang

Car writers say nothing looks, drives or feels like a Ford Mustang, whether you buy one new or used. More importantly, buying used rather than new will help you get that retro-cool vibe the current Mustang is known for. According to Edmunds, any Mustang made between 1986 and 2004 is perfect "if you prefer a V8 rumble to drown out the rattles from your cheap ride's aging interior," and you should be able to find one from that time period for less than $5,000. Cars.com reports the Mustang is one of the top-10 most popular used cars based on reports from dealers and private sellers.

Mazda MX-5 Miata

It's sexy and affordable. It corners on a dime, and with an impressive reliability record, it's built to last. While it's not as powerful as some affordable sports cars, numerous automotive experts say the Mazda MX-5 Miata's nimble handling is great no matter what model year you choose. Edmunds notes, "this little roadster proves that the right sports car formula has real staying power," and notes that first generation Miata's made between 1990 and 1997 "are readily available for well under $5 grand." Not only that, but J.D. Power and Associates chose the 2006 Miata as the most reliable compact sports car in its 2009 Vehicle Dependability Survey, and Consumer Reports selected the Miata as its Best Used Sports Car.

Worst Used Car That you better dont think of

2008 Chrysler Sebring

Knowing where to place your bets with a used car can be tricky. The horror stories are all too common -- the pieced-together parts, the unexplained and unexpected sounds and smells, the bodies in the trunk ...

But buying used doesn't have to be such a gamble if you do your research. There's a wealth of online information available that can make it easier to avoid a lemon. With the federal government's vehicle defect notices and J.D. Power and Associates' reliability data the most common mechanical issues are all easy to trace. In addition, U.S. News' used car listings make the search easier for the best used car options in your area.

But we've already done at that research to help you narrow down your choices. Check out our list of the best and worst used cars. Remember, while this list is a good start, all used cars are different. Before buying, make sure you give any used car -- even one on our best list -- a thorough inspection.

GMC Canyon

The GMC Canyon successfully balances an imposing stance on the highway while providing coddling comfort in the cab. Reviewers also praise the 2009 model's new V8 engine for helping the Canyon effectively compete with meatier trucks in its segment. But Consumer Reports cites the Canyon's troubled reliability history as the reason it makes their Worst Used Cars list. According to Consumer Guide, Canyons from 2004 through 2008 are "underpowered for anything other than daily commuting," with pronounced road noise and a tiresome ride depending on the trim. Consumer Guide says some commonly reported problems for these model years include electrical wiring problems with the OnStar system and weak exhaust valve springs that could cause the engine to misfire.

Chrysler Sebring

As Chrysler dealerships close across the country, you can expect unbelievable prices on both new and used models of the Sebring sedan or convertible. It's just too bad that shaky reliability, poor cabin quality and disappointing performance lead most reviewers to say the Sebring was never a great buy to begin with. Consumer Reports chose the Sebring convertible as one of the Worst Used Cars based on reliability data from vehicles from 1999 through 2008. Meanwhile, CarComplaints.com shows many Sebring owners have reported problems with the engine, air conditioning and heating systems and airbags on both the 2001 and 2002 Sebrings.

Ford Explorer

The current generation of the Ford Explorer ranks mid-pack among affordable midsize SUVs, and is praised for its off-roading capabilities and a spacious cabin. But according to CarComplaints.com, car owners have recounted problems with the third generation of the Explorer -- made from 2002 to 2005 -- for cracked window panels and faulty transmissions. Consumer Guide also recounts this generation of Explorer has commonly had problems with coolant and oil leaks, rattling timing belts and ticking valves in the 4.6-liter engines.

Dodge Intrepid

The Intrepid was a Consumer Guide Best Buy or Recommended Pick almost every year of its 1998 to 2004 run. Reviewers liked the sedan's passenger and cargo room and praised the nimble handling, especially for the car's size. But a large number of Intrepid owners have reported engine troubles with the 2000 model, and the federal government previously recalled Intrepids for faulty airbags and seatbelts. Consumer Guide notes the Intrepid's most commonly reported mechanical problems include electrical problems with the cabin lights and headlights, plus an engine tapping noise when driving a V6 Intrepid.

Pontiac Aztek

The Aztek's brief four-year run in Pontiac's lineup is a testament to this midsize crossover SUV's unpopularity. We could fudge it and say that disdain for the SUV had to do with its low gas mileage or lacking cabin quality, but truly, critics say the biggest problem with the Aztek was its ungainly dimensions. According to Britain's Daily Telegraph, the Aztek's obtuse shape was "proof that Americans do ugly better than anyone else." On our side of the Atlantic, Consumer Reports lists the Aztek on its Worst Used Cars and TIME Magazine dinged the 2001 model as one of its "Worst Cars of All Time." According to TIME's writers, "This car could not have been more instantly hated it if had a Swastika tattoo on its forehead. ... a bulky, plastic-clad mess. ... The Aztek violates one of the principal rules of car design: We like cars that look like us." But if you can get around the Aztek's unconventional look, reviewers admit the SUV is a competent performer with stable handling and

The most and least expensive car to insure

BMW M6

From seeking greater fuel efficiency to carpooling, some American drivers are looking for ways to save on ownership costs.

But one thing most can't do without is car insurance. Each of the nation's 50 states has laws that require drivers purchase liability insurance or provide enough "proof of financial responsibility" to cover a claim in case of an accident.

Premiums are dropping; the average in May was at its lowest point in a year at $1,871 per car, down from the national average of $1,982 in October, according to Insurance.com’s RateWatch, a Web site that tracks annual average insurance rates. But they continue, for most, to be a major outlay. Still, consumers worried about the bottom line have options.

The 185-horsepower, 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe costs an average of $832 a year to insure, the lowest of a list of just under 300 2009 models surveyed. The Saturn Vue costs an average of $911 a year to insure, and a Kia Sedona can be covered for an annual cost of $857.

Owners of luxury autos such as the BMW M5, the Mercedes-Benz G-Class and the Porsche 911Nissan GT-R, the 2009 Motor Trend Car of the Year, pay an average $2,533 a year. The sports car's super-charged 3.8-liter, twin-turbocharged 24-valve V6 engine helped it to the top of the list. pay for that kind of prestige--$2,020, $2,088 and $1,819, respectively. But those who drive the $80,790

Behind the Numbers

Our numbers come from Insure.com, an online information clearinghouse for consumers. The company calculated nationwide average car insurance premiums for almost 300 2009 model-year vehicles. Averages are based on a 40-year-old male driver who commutes 12 miles to work. This driver has policy limits of $100,000 for injury liability for one person; $300,000 for all injuries and $50,000 for property damage in an accident; and a $500 deductible on collision and comprehensive. This policy also includes uninsured motorist coverage. Rates were averaged across multiple ZIP codes and insurance companies.

Of course, a car's value will jack up a driver's outlay, as will the driving record of the person behind the wheel, says Jack Nerad, executive editorial director and market analyst for Kelley Blue Book.

Other factors can play a part too, such as potential loss. For example, the Hummer H2 was the eighth-most stolen car in America, according to the Insurance Institute for Highway Safety, which determined its list by claims per 1,000 divided by average loss payment per claim; it is also eighth-most expensive vehicle to insure on our list.

A consumer's ability to compare is another factor. Shoppers may be most familiar with big companies with representatives located nationwide. Comparing the rates at these brand names with those found online and at independent agencies will yield the best deals. Make sure to compare limits and features side by side.

Driver stereotypes also play a role. Expensive, high-performance autos often attract "riskier" drivers, says Nerad, and such vehicles are more expensive to fix or replace when involved in accidents. Likewise, autos like sports cars that are popular with younger drivers usually have a higher premium since younger drivers are considered riskier drivers.

Larger vehicles like SUVs and minivans are more likely to be family vehicles driven by mothers, who are historically less dangerous drivers. With lower risk comes lower loss potential, and thus a lower premium. Eight of the top 10 least expensive vehicles to insure are either minivans or SUVs.

But even those with a need for speed are likely to see premiums drop slightly. And, along with premiums, insurance rates have fallen after an increase last year of 8%. Wyoming, South Dakota, Utah and Idaho experienced the largest rate decreases in May, from 9% in Wyoming to 5.5% in Idaho.

As insurers compete for increasingly discerning consumers, expect this downward trend to continue for the rest of this year.

Free Car Brakes Guide - A better car brake?

Brakes on any vehicle work with a friction pad placed against a disc with force. The friction of the pad against the disc causes heat to spread out over the brake disc, causing the car to slow. The same applies for brake drums with the brake shoe pressed against it, heating up and again slowing the vehicle.

Starting under your foot the pressure you apply to the brake pedal is transferred to the brake servo, this utilises engine power to increase the pressure and ensuring you can still feel your leg after a long journey!

How is the pressure transferred to the friction (brake) pads? Well the secret is brake fluid - this is contained in a brake pipe that runs from the servo to the brakes. Fluid is used as cables would require constant adjustment due to stretching from the heat and constant use.

As mentioned the heat is dissipated from the pad by the brake discs. For improved dissipation vented brake discs have a central channel that increases the surface to air ratio of the disc and gives more efficient cooling. Drilled and vented discs increase the air ratio, prevent a build up of gases and keep the pads in a clean condition. To further improve the braking of a high performance car you can always fit larger discs but you may have to fit different wheels.

Brake pads are obviously an essential part in stopping your car and the higher the friction the better the performance. Fast road pads give a good compromise between standard and racing pads with some generating zero pads. Remember that regardless of the pads your driving style will play a large part in the wear on the pads and discs.

ABS helps to prevent lockups under heavy braking and allows you to steer the car but steering will reduce the braking efficiency as the ABS cuts in more.

Brake Upgrades Stainless steel braided hoses prevent any flexing and therefore loss of pressure at the pad end, they also look nicer and theoretically last longer too - get a full set and do the front and back at the same time.

You have many options to upgrade your cars braking system. The fitting of bigger discs is an upgrade that could be a fairly simple option. Take a standard family car for example with small discs - you could visit your local breaker or buy brake parts online for a performance model from the same vehicle. Small cars usually share the same brake parts than their larger brothers and just a small amount of research could turn up some surprises.

General Care of Your Brake System At least once per year you need to give your brakes a once over. Start by checking your pads and discs for wear and tear. The discs should not have a ridge on the edge due to excessive wear, thin discs can warp under immense heat conditions. Check your pads for wear as they will eat into your discs when worn.

Brake fluid levels should be changed at least once per year but no longer than every two years.
One point to make is to test your brakes by applying them after driving through standing water to remove the water and grease build up.

I hope you have found this information useful, it’s important to understand the attention you need to give your brakes as you need to stop your car with confidence.